Cervejaria Ramiro

Cervejaria Ramiro opened in 1956 as a beer hall and grew into Lisbon's best-known seafood restaurant. It is a loud, busy, unfussy place on Avenida Almirante Reis, just above Martim Moniz, where locals and visitors share tables covered in shellfish. The appeal is the quality and freshness of the seafood and the energy of the room rather than any refinement of setting.

Most shellfish is priced by weight, so you order according to appetite. Popular choices include prawns cooked in garlic and olive oil, clams in a garlic, coriander and olive oil sauce, goose barnacles, crab dressed in its shell, lobster and tiger prawns, with buttered toast to mop up the juices and cold beer to drink. The traditional way to finish is a prego, a steak sandwich in a soft roll, eaten as a savoury dessert. Ask the waiter for advice on what is best that day and how much to order, and check the price per kilo before choosing the larger shellfish.

Ramiro suits groups who want to share and anyone who enjoys a lively atmosphere. It is less suited to a quiet, romantic dinner. There is little for vegetarians or anyone who avoids seafood, apart from the steak sandwich and a few side dishes. Be aware that, as in many Portuguese restaurants, items such as bread, butter and olives may be brought to the table and charged if eaten, so send back anything you do not want.

The restaurant opens Tuesday to Saturday from 12:00 to 00:00 and on Sunday from 12:00 to 23:00. For years it was known for long queues outside, and it remains very busy, especially in the evenings and at weekends. Reservations can be made online, and group bookings are handled by email, so book ahead if you can. Otherwise come for a late lunch on a weekday, when the wait is usually shorter. There is also a take-away and delivery service from 12:00 to 21:00.

The nearest metro stations are Intendente and Martim Moniz on the green line, each a few minutes' walk away, and tram 28 starts from Martim Moniz below. The Intendente and Mouraria neighbourhoods around it have become a lively area for bars and small restaurants, and São Jorge Castle is a steep walk up the hill.