Solar dos Presuntos

Solar dos Presuntos opened in 1974 at the top of Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, founded by Evaristo Cardoso, who came from Monção in the Minho, the green northern region on the border with Galicia. After the founder's death in December 2022, his son Pedro Cardoso continued to run the house.

The cooking is rooted in the traditions of the Minho, which means generous portions and robust flavours. As the name suggests, cured ham, presunto, is a speciality, and a plate of thinly sliced ham with bread makes an obvious start. Seafood is the other strength: the display at the entrance shows the fish and shellfish of the day, which can be grilled, boiled or cooked in rice dishes. Other classic Portuguese dishes complete the menu, and the wine list includes wines from the north, including the Vinho Verde region close to the founder's home town.

This is a traditional, smart restaurant with professional service rather than a casual tasca, and it suits a long lunch or dinner for families, groups of friends or business meals. Group menus are available for larger parties. As in most Portuguese seafood restaurants, shellfish and some fish are priced by weight, so ask before ordering to avoid surprises. Expect to spend more than in a neighbourhood eatery, reflecting the quality of the produce.

The restaurant was extended and renovated in 2021 with a new kitchen and a larger wine cellar, so the rooms feel more spacious than the narrow street outside suggests. Booking is advisable for dinner, at weekends and whenever there is a football match or event in town. Bread, cured ham and other starters may arrive at the table before you order, and they are charged if eaten, which is normal practice in Portugal. Smart casual dress fits the room. Opening hours are not listed on the website, so check them when you book.

The restaurant is at the northern end of Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, close to the Avenida da Liberdade and a few minutes' walk from Restauradores and Avenida metro stations. The Coliseu dos Recreios and the Casa do Alentejo are nearby, and Rossio is a short stroll to the south.