Ester

Ester is a modern Australian restaurant in Chippendale run by chef Mat Lindsay, whose cooking has earned it a strong following among Sydney diners. The room is intimate and minimal, with concrete walls and a sparse fit-out that keeps attention on the food and the open kitchen. At the heart of that kitchen is a wood-fired oven, which shapes much of the menu.

The dishes are designed for sharing and built around bold flavours. The oven gives smoke and char to vegetables, seafood and meat, and the menu changes regularly with the seasons, so ask the staff for guidance on what is coming out of the oven that day and how many dishes to order for your group. Bread and smaller snacks are a good way to start.

The drinks list concentrates on natural wine, with a compact and eclectic selection of bottles from Australia and overseas. Staff are happy to recommend wines to suit the dishes you choose, and there is usually something interesting by the glass.

Ester opens for dinner from Wednesday to Saturday and for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays. It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Booking is recommended, particularly for Friday and Saturday evenings, although it is worth asking about tables if you are passing. Weekend lunch is a more relaxed time to visit and suits a leisurely meal.

Because the menu changes so often, regulars return to see what the kitchen is doing with the produce of the moment. Vegetables receive as much attention as meat and fish, so it is a good choice for groups that include vegetarians, though it is worth mentioning dietary needs when booking so the kitchen can plan.

The restaurant suits couples, small groups of friends and anyone who prefers informal surroundings with serious cooking. It is not a formal restaurant, and the atmosphere is lively, so it may not suit diners who want a quiet setting. Allow around two hours for a meal. Ester is on Meagher Street in Chippendale, about ten minutes' walk from Central station. The surrounding area has a concentration of galleries and small bars, and Kensington Street and Spice Alley are a short walk away, making it easy to combine dinner with a drink before or afterwards. Broadway Shopping Centre and the University of Sydney are also close by.