Dar Roumana

Dar Roumana is a small restaurant with rooms in a traditional Moroccan house on Zkak Roumane in the medina, and it has long been one of the most respected tables in Fes. Dinner is served at only a handful of tables, five according to the travel service Indagare, which lists it as an Editors' Pick, arranged around a tiled courtyard. The intimate scale makes an evening here feel more like a dinner party in a private house than a meal in a restaurant.

The cooking is Mediterranean-Moroccan. Chef Younes Idrissi, a native of Fes who trained in Rabat, builds a changing menu around ingredients he buys in the souks each morning, so dishes follow the seasons and the market rather than a fixed list. That approach suits travellers who have already eaten their share of tagines and want to see how Moroccan produce can be treated with a lighter, more contemporary touch, while still tasting of Fes.

The house itself is part of the appeal. Dar Roumana has five suites for overnight guests, decorated with Moroccan craftsmanship, and a sun-drenched roof terrace with views across the medina, where cocktails are served. Arriving in time for a drink on the terrace before dinner is a good way to see the old city at dusk.

Because there are so few tables, booking ahead is essential, and it is sensible to confirm your reservation by phone a day or two before. The lanes of the medina can be confusing after dark, so ask the restaurant for directions or for someone to meet you at a recognisable point, and allow extra time to find it the first time. Mention any dietary requirements in advance, as the menu is planned around the morning's shopping.

Dar Roumana suits couples and small groups who enjoy food and want a calm, personal evening. It is less suited to large parties. Combine dinner with a stay in one of the suites if you want to avoid the walk back through the medina at night. As with all small, independent restaurants, details can change, so check opening days when you book.