Restaurant
St. JOHN Smithfield
Fergus Henderson's influential Smithfield restaurant, founded in 1994 and known for nose-to-tail British cooking from a daily changing menu.
Founded by Thomas Rule in 1798, this Covent Garden institution serves traditional British dishes and is especially known for its game.
Good to know
Rules was established by Thomas Rule in 1798 and is London's oldest restaurant. Over more than two centuries it has been owned by only four families, and its Covent Garden dining rooms reflect that history, with red velvet banquettes, polished wood and walls crowded with paintings, cartoons and drawings collected over generations. Writers, actors and politicians have dined here for well over a century, and two private dining rooms are named after Graham Greene and John Betjeman.
The kitchen specialises in traditional British food, and Rules is particularly known for its classic game cookery. In season, expect dishes such as grouse, partridge, pheasant and venison, alongside oysters, steak and kidney pudding, pies, roasts and classic British puddings. The menu changes with the seasons, so autumn and winter are the best times to visit for game. The upstairs cocktail bar, with its own space called the Winter Gardens, is a good spot for a drink before or after dinner.
Rules suits couples, visitors looking for a sense of old London, theatregoers and anyone who enjoys hearty British cooking. It is a traditional restaurant with a fairly formal feel, so smart dress is preferred and sportswear or shorts are not allowed. Children are welcome during the day, but children under ten are not admitted after 19:00.
The restaurant is open seven days a week, and reservations are made online through the booking links on the official website. Booking ahead is wise, especially in the run-up to Christmas, when the dining rooms are elaborately decorated, and before evening theatre performances. Vegetarian options are available, but meat and game are the focus. The two private rooms can be hired for events and meetings. For a lighter visit, a drink in the cocktail bar gives a taste of the building's atmosphere without committing to a full meal, and lunch is usually easier to book than a Saturday evening.
Rules is on Maiden Lane, a narrow street between the Strand and Covent Garden Piazza. Covent Garden, Leicester Square, Charing Cross and Embankment stations are all within a few minutes' walk. The theatres of the West End, the Royal Opera House, the Savoy and the Thames embankment are all close, so it fits easily into an evening out in central London.
Smart dress is preferred. Shorts and sportswear are not allowed.
Yes during the day, but children under ten are not admitted after 19:00.
It was established by Thomas Rule in 1798 and is London's oldest restaurant.
Traditional British food and especially game, served in season.
Reservations are made online through the booking links on the official website.
Yes, the cocktail bar upstairs includes a space called the Winter Gardens.
Yes, the Graham Greene Room and the John Betjeman Room are available for events.
Covent Garden, Charing Cross, Leicester Square and Embankment are all a few minutes' walk.
Thing to do
London's celebrated food market beside London Bridge station, with traders selling produce, cheese, bread, street food and specialist groceries.
Attraction
Britain's great museum of world history and culture in Bloomsbury, with free entry to a permanent collection spanning two million years of human civilisation.
Tour operator
A long-running London walking tour company offering guided walks every day, from Jack the Ripper and Beatles routes to village London and pub walks.
Café
A specialty coffee shop and roaster's outlet at Borough Market, serving filter and espresso coffee and selling beans that can be sampled in store.