Restaurant
St. JOHN Smithfield
Fergus Henderson's influential Smithfield restaurant, founded in 1994 and known for nose-to-tail British cooking from a daily changing menu.
A small Soho Thai restaurant cooking over charcoal and in clay pots, with counter seating and dishes built on seasonal British produce.
Good to know
Kiln is a small Thai restaurant on Brewer Street in Soho, opened by Ben Chapman in 2016 and inspired by the cooking of northern Thailand and its borders with Laos, Myanmar and Yunnan. The kitchen cooks over charcoal grills and in clay pots, and much of the produce comes from British farms and fishermen, giving familiar Thai flavours a distinctive local character. The restaurant is narrow and informal, with most diners seated at a long counter facing the open kitchen.
The menu is short and changes often, but it is built around grills, curries, salads and clay-pot dishes. Regular favourites have included claypot baked glass noodles, aged lamb and cumin skewers, laap salads of minced meat or offal with toasted rice and herbs, and jungle curry, a fiery broth-like curry without coconut milk. Grilled fish and sai oua, a northern Thai sausage, also appear regularly. Dishes are designed to be shared, and the spice levels can be high, so ask staff for guidance if you prefer milder food.
Kiln suits adventurous eaters, couples, solo diners and small groups of friends. The counter makes it ideal for watching the chefs at work, while larger tables downstairs suit bigger groups who want to share more dishes. The atmosphere is busy and relaxed, and it works well for a quick lunch or a lively dinner in Soho.
The kitchen is open from 12:00 to 23:00 Monday to Saturday and from 12:00 to 21:00 on Sundays. Walk-ins are welcome at the counter, and if there is a wait you can leave a number to be messaged when a seat is free. Tables downstairs can be reserved for larger groups, and the bookings email on the official website handles enquiries. Arriving early for lunch or dinner is the easiest way to get a seat without waiting.
Brewer Street runs between Regent Street and Wardour Street in the centre of Soho. Piccadilly Circus and Oxford Circus Underground stations are each a few minutes' walk away. Soho's bars, the shops of Carnaby Street and the theatres of Shaftesbury Avenue are all close by, making Kiln an easy choice before a show or a night out.
Counter seating is mostly walk-in, and guests can leave a number to be messaged when a seat is free. Downstairs tables can be booked for larger groups.
Thai cooking centred on grilling, clay pots, curries, larb and skewers.
The kitchen is open 12:00 to 23:00 Monday to Saturday and 12:00 to 21:00 on Sunday.
Many dishes are spicy. Ask the staff for guidance if you prefer milder flavours.
Claypot baked glass noodles, lamb skewers, a laap salad and one of the curries are good choices to share.
Small groups suit the counter, and larger groups can book tables downstairs.
Piccadilly Circus and Oxford Circus, each a few minutes' walk away.
By email through the addresses published on the official website.
Thing to do
London's celebrated food market beside London Bridge station, with traders selling produce, cheese, bread, street food and specialist groceries.
Attraction
Britain's great museum of world history and culture in Bloomsbury, with free entry to a permanent collection spanning two million years of human civilisation.
Tour operator
A long-running London walking tour company offering guided walks every day, from Jack the Ripper and Beatles routes to village London and pub walks.
Café
A specialty coffee shop and roaster's outlet at Borough Market, serving filter and espresso coffee and selling beans that can be sampled in store.