Develi Samatya

Develi is a family kebab business whose history dates back to 1912 and which is now in its fourth generation. The group has grown to around a dozen restaurants in Istanbul, Ankara and Northern Cyprus, but its story began in Samatya, an old neighbourhood on the Marmara shore south-west of Sultanahmet, and the original restaurant on Gümüşyüzük Sokak remains the one with the most character.

The focus is firmly on kebabs from south-eastern Turkey, cooked over charcoal. The menu covers minced meat kebabs, cubed meat skewers, kebabs cooked with vegetables and seasonal specialities, supported by meze, salads, lahmacun and pide, with traditional desserts to finish. The best approach is to order a selection of kebabs to share, along with a few meze, and ask the waiters for the dishes the house is best known for. Spicy and mild versions are often available, so say clearly if you prefer less heat.

The restaurant is spread over several floors, with a terrace on top that looks over the rooftops of Samatya towards the Sea of Marmara. It is well suited to groups and family meals, and the service is practised and efficient. Reservations can be made through the Develi website or by phone, and they are worth making for a terrace table on a summer evening or at weekends.

Samatya itself is worth the trip. It is one of the city's older neighbourhoods, with a strong Armenian heritage, a lively central square lined with fish restaurants and meyhanes, and a slower pace than the historic centre. Wander through the streets before dinner, or take a stroll along the Marmara shore afterwards.

Develi Samatya suits families, groups and kebab lovers willing to venture a little beyond the usual sights. The easiest way to get there is on the Marmaray suburban rail line to Kocamustafapaşa station, a short walk from the restaurant, or by taxi from Sultanahmet, which takes around 15 to 20 minutes depending on traffic. The Byzantine land walls and the Yedikule fortress are a short distance west, so you could combine dinner with an afternoon exploring that part of the city.