Çiya Sofrası

Çiya Sofrası is the best known of a small group of Çiya restaurants run by chef Musa Dağdeviren in the market streets of Kadıköy, on the Asian side of the city. Since opening in 1998 it has become one of the most respected places to eat regional Turkish food in Istanbul. Dağdeviren has spent decades collecting recipes from across Anatolia and neighbouring regions, many of them on the verge of being forgotten, and his work has brought him international attention, including an episode of the Netflix series Chef's Table.

The restaurant describes its cooking as spanning a huge area, from Mesopotamia and the Ottoman lands to the Balkans, the Caucasus and beyond, and the menu changes daily with the season. Expect stuffed vegetables and vine leaves, herb-heavy salads, wild greens, soups and stews that pair meat with fruit, such as lamb with quince or plums, as well as unusual seasonal sherbets, pickles and desserts. Two other Çiya restaurants, a few metres away, focus on kebabs and lahmacun.

Ordering works best from the counter, where the day's cold dishes are laid out and you can point to what appeals; hot dishes are listed separately and the staff will explain them. Take your time and try several small portions rather than one large plate, and ask about the sherbet of the day. Prices are moderate, and paying by portion means you can easily try five or six different dishes between two people. The atmosphere is informal, with simple tables inside and on the pedestrian street.

Lunch is the busiest time, as the restaurant is popular with visitors on day trips to Kadıköy, so arrive early or late in the afternoon. The market streets around it, full of fishmongers, greengrocers, delicatessens and coffee roasters, are worth exploring before or after the meal.

Çiya Sofrası suits curious eaters, vegetarians, who will find plenty of choice among the vegetable dishes, and anyone interested in Turkish food beyond kebabs. Take a ferry from Eminönü, Karaköy or Beşiktaş to Kadıköy, which is a scenic crossing of about 20 minutes, then walk a few minutes into the market streets. Moda's waterfront and cafés are within a 15-minute walk, and Baylan, the historic patisserie, is nearby for dessert.