Thing to do
Souks of the Tunis Medina
A walk through the covered market streets around the Zitouna Mosque, from the thirteenth-century perfume souk to lanes of craftsmen and textile sellers.
The tree-lined main boulevard of modern Tunis, 1.5 km long, lined with cafés and colonial-era buildings between the lake and the medina gate.
Good to know
Avenue Habib Bourguiba is the main artery of the Ville Nouvelle, the grid of streets laid out beside the medina during the French protectorate, and a walk along it is the easiest introduction to modern Tunis. The avenue is about 1.5 km long and 60 metres wide, running east to west from the Lake of Tunis to Place de l'Indépendance. It began as the Promenade de la Marine, a road that turned to mud in winter and dust in summer, was renamed Avenue Jules-Ferry before the First World War and took its present name at independence in 1956.
A broad central walkway runs between the traffic lanes, shaded by ficus trees; there used to be four rows, reduced to two during a renovation in 2000 and 2001. Street cafés line both sides, and this is the place to sit with a coffee or mint tea and watch the city go by. Notable buildings include the Art Nouveau Théâtre municipal, opened in 1902, the Coliseum building of 1931 with its galleries and cinemas, and the Hotel Claridge from 1932.
At the western end, Place de l'Indépendance has a statue of the historian Ibn Khaldoun in the centre, the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul on one side and the French embassy opposite. From here Avenue de France continues to Bab el Bhar, the free-standing arch that marks the entrance to the medina. The avenue also has a central place in recent history: it was the scene of many of the demonstrations of January 2011 that led to the fall of President Ben Ali, and part of it is now named Place du 14 Janvier 2011.
The walk takes around thirty minutes at an easy pace, longer with café stops. Late afternoon and early evening are the most pleasant times, when the light is softer and the cafés fill up. The avenue is flat and wide, which makes it one of the easiest places in central Tunis for pushchairs and wheelchairs. Security around government buildings is visible, so follow any instructions about where you can walk or take photographs.
Combine the avenue with a morning in the medina, or use it as a route between the souks and dinner in the Ville Nouvelle.
About 1.5 km, running from the Lake of Tunis to Place de l'Indépendance.
The Théâtre municipal, the Coliseum building, the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul and the Ibn Khaldoun statue.
It began as the Promenade de la Marine and was later called Avenue Jules-Ferry, before being renamed in 1956.
It was the scene of many of the demonstrations of January 2011, and a square on it is named after 14 January 2011.
Late afternoon and early evening, when the cafés are busy and the light is softer.
Yes, it is flat and wide, so it is one of the easier walks in central Tunis.
Walk west from Place de l'Indépendance along Avenue de France to Bab el Bhar, a few minutes away.
Attraction
Tunisia's oldest and most important museum, set in a former beylical palace and home to one of the world's great collections of Roman mosaics.
Café
Founded in the early seventeenth century and considered the oldest coffee house in Tunisia, a medina café with columns, benches and tea with pine nuts.
Restaurant
A long-established restaurant in an eighteenth-century medina mansion near the Kasbah, serving classic Tunisian dishes in a candlelit tiled courtyard.
Tour operator
Guided walks through the medina's monuments and souks led on request by historian Jamila Binous, plus guided visits to the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.