Restaurant
Le Golfe
A La Marsa seafood institution since 1955, with a sea-view terrace, seasonal Mediterranean cooking and a place on MENA's 50 Best Restaurants list.
A long-established restaurant in an eighteenth-century medina mansion near the Kasbah, serving classic Tunisian dishes in a candlelit tiled courtyard.
Good to know
Dar El Jeld is the restaurant most often recommended for a special Tunisian dinner in the medina, and it has been serving guests for more than three decades. It occupies an eighteenth-century mansion on a narrow lane near the Kasbah and the entrance to the souks, opened as a restaurant in 1987, and describes itself as the oldest and best known Tunisian specialities restaurant in the city. The same owners run the Dar El Jeld hotel directly opposite, as well as Fondouk El Attarine in the perfume souk.
The setting is a large part of the appeal. Diners sit around a whitewashed courtyard decorated with bright tiles, wrought iron and carpets, lit in the evening by candles and chandeliers, and traditional music often accompanies dinner. It is a good choice for a celebration, a romantic evening or a first taste of refined Tunisian cooking in a historic house.
The menu sticks to the classics of Tunisian home and festive cooking. Expect a spread of starters and bricks, the crisp filled pastry parcels found all over the country, followed by grilled kebabs, whole grilled fish or couscous with fish or lamb. Portions are generous, so pace yourself through the starters, and ask the staff about the day's fish if you prefer seafood.
According to the restaurant's own website, it serves lunch and dinner and is closed on Sundays. Booking is strongly recommended, especially for dinner and at weekends, and you can reserve through the website or by phone. Guides and travel writers suggest dressing smartly in the evening; this is not a casual café, and the atmosphere is calm and polished. Allow a couple of hours for a relaxed dinner. Because the house is reached through medina lanes, ask your taxi to drop you as close as possible and follow the restaurant's directions, or walk with your hotel's staff after dark.
Dar El Jeld suits couples, families celebrating an occasion and anyone who wants traditional food in a memorable setting. After dinner, the rooftop bar and restaurant at the hotel opposite is a pleasant place for a final drink with a view across the medina's roofs and minarets.
Yes, reservations are recommended, especially for dinner and at weekends.
No, the restaurant's website says it is closed on Sundays.
Traditional Tunisian cooking such as starters and bricks, grilled kebabs, whole grilled fish and fish or lamb couscous.
There is no strict rule published, but smart clothing is recommended for dinner.
It opened in 1987 in an eighteenth-century mansion and has been running for more than three decades.
On Rue Dar El Jeld near the Kasbah and the entrance to the souks, opposite the Dar El Jeld hotel.
Traditional music often accompanies dinner in the courtyard.
Yes, the rooftop at the Dar El Jeld hotel opposite serves drinks with views over the medina.
Attraction
Tunisia's oldest and most important museum, set in a former beylical palace and home to one of the world's great collections of Roman mosaics.
Café
Founded in the early seventeenth century and considered the oldest coffee house in Tunisia, a medina café with columns, benches and tea with pine nuts.
Tour operator
Guided walks through the medina's monuments and souks led on request by historian Jamila Binous, plus guided visits to the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.
Hotel
A beachfront luxury hotel at Cap Gammarth on the Gulf of Tunis, with sea-view suites, a hammam spa, an outdoor pool and several restaurants and bars.