Attraction
Bardo National Museum
Tunisia's oldest and most important museum, set in a former beylical palace and home to one of the world's great collections of Roman mosaics.
The walled old city of Tunis, founded in 698 around the Zitouna Mosque and listed by UNESCO, with around 700 monuments, souks and palaces.
Good to know
The Medina of Tunis is the historic core of the city, a walled old town where daily life still goes on around centuries-old monuments. It grew from 698 around the Zitouna Mosque, and today it covers around 270 hectares, plus the former kasbah district, with some 700 monuments including palaces, mosques, mausoleums, madrasas and fountains. UNESCO added it to the World Heritage List in 1979.
The usual way in is through Bab el Bhar, the free-standing gate on the eastern side also known as the Porte de France, which links the old town to the avenues of the colonial-era Ville Nouvelle. From there, lanes climb gently towards the Zitouna Mosque, surrounded by the covered souks. Further south and west you reach quieter residential streets with studded doors, the mausoleum of Tourbet el Bey and the house museum of Dar Ben Abdallah. Bab Sidi Kacem, part of the old kasbah fortifications, still stands on the south-west side.
Several of the medina's old houses have become restaurants, cafés and small hotels, which means you can eat in a palace courtyard at lunch, drink tea on a roof terrace above the souks, and sleep in a restored dar. Fondouk El Attarine, a former merchants' inn in the perfume souk, is a good example of this kind of reuse.
Plan at least half a day, and ideally a full day split between the souks in the morning and the southern quarters in the afternoon. The lanes are narrow and uneven, so wear comfortable shoes. The souks are at their liveliest in the late morning, while the residential quarters are calmer in the afternoon. A local guide is useful on a first visit, because many of the finest buildings are hidden behind plain walls. Dress modestly out of respect for the mosques and residents, and carry cash for small purchases.
The medina suits curious travellers of all ages, although pushchairs and wheelchairs will struggle with steps and crowds. Taxis can drop you at Bab el Bhar or near the Kasbah square, and the Avenue Habib Bourguiba leads straight to the main gate from the city centre. Combine the visit with lunch in a medina restaurant and a stroll along the avenue in the early evening.
Yes, it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979.
Bab el Bhar, the old sea gate also called the Porte de France, is the main entrance from the Ville Nouvelle.
Half a day covers the main souks and the Zitouna Mosque, while a full day lets you reach the quieter southern quarters.
The lanes are irregular, but the main routes lead uphill to the Zitouna Mosque and back down to Bab el Bhar, which makes it easy to reorient.
Late morning is usually the busiest time in the covered souks, while the southern residential quarters are calmer in the afternoon.
A guide helps on a first visit because many fine houses and monuments are hidden behind plain walls and are easy to miss.
Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees is respectful in the old city, especially near mosques.
Not easily, because of steps, slopes, uneven paving and crowds in the souks.
Café
Founded in the early seventeenth century and considered the oldest coffee house in Tunisia, a medina café with columns, benches and tea with pine nuts.
Restaurant
A long-established restaurant in an eighteenth-century medina mansion near the Kasbah, serving classic Tunisian dishes in a candlelit tiled courtyard.
Tour operator
Guided walks through the medina's monuments and souks led on request by historian Jamila Binous, plus guided visits to the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.
Hotel
A beachfront luxury hotel at Cap Gammarth on the Gulf of Tunis, with sea-view suites, a hammam spa, an outdoor pool and several restaurants and bars.