Thing to do
Souks of the Tunis Medina
A walk through the covered market streets around the Zitouna Mosque, from the thirteenth-century perfume souk to lanes of craftsmen and textile sellers.
The sandy beach and seafront of La Marsa at the end of the TGM line, a relaxed residential suburb with cafés, restaurants and old palaces.
Good to know
La Marsa is the seaside suburb where many Tunisians spend their summer evenings, and a trip here shows a very different side of the capital from the medina. It sits on the coast north of Sidi Bou Said and is reached by the TGM, the 19 km suburban railway that links Tunis to the sea via La Goulette and Carthage. The line ends at La Marsa, and Marsa Plage station leaves you a short walk from the sand.
The town is known for its beaches, and the long stretch of sand along the corniche is the main draw on warm days. Away from the beach, La Marsa is an upmarket residential area with shops, cafés and restaurants, and it has historic buildings too. The Abdalliya Palace, built in the early sixteenth century by a late Hafsid sultan on the site of the ancient port, is considered one of the oldest examples of Muslim palace architecture still in good condition in the Maghreb. The town also has the El Ahmadi Mosque and the Keren Yechoua synagogue, a reminder of the area's mixed history. Gammarth, with its large resort hotels, continues the coast further north.
For a classic La Marsa evening, walk along the seafront at sunset and stay for dinner. Le Golfe, a seafood restaurant open since 1955, faces the sea on Rue Larbi Zarrouk, and the corniche has many simpler cafés. The town centre also has plenty of cafés for a mint tea away from the sand.
Summer weekends are crowded, with families arriving from across the city, so if you want space on the beach come on a weekday or outside July and August. Spring and early autumn are pleasant for walking along the front even when it is too cool to swim. Bring sun protection, keep an eye on flags and local advice about sea conditions, and remember that beachwear is for the beach rather than the town streets.
La Marsa suits families, couples and anyone staying in Gammarth or Sidi Bou Said. It is easy to combine with Sidi Bou Said, one stop back down the line, or with Carthage earlier in the day, and many visitors finish a day of sightseeing on the coast with dinner here before taking the train or a taxi back to the centre.
Take the TGM suburban train, which runs 19 km from Tunis via La Goulette, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said; Marsa Plage station is close to the beach.
Its beaches are popular in summer; follow local advice and flags on sea conditions.
Summer weekends, especially in July and August, when families come from across the city.
The sixteenth-century Abdalliya Palace, the El Ahmadi Mosque and a lively seafront with cafés.
Le Golfe, open since 1955, is a well-known seafood restaurant facing the sea, and the corniche has simpler cafés.
Yes, Sidi Bou Said and Carthage are a few stops back along the TGM line.
Keep beachwear for the beach and dress casually but modestly in the streets.
Attraction
Tunisia's oldest and most important museum, set in a former beylical palace and home to one of the world's great collections of Roman mosaics.
Café
Founded in the early seventeenth century and considered the oldest coffee house in Tunisia, a medina café with columns, benches and tea with pine nuts.
Restaurant
A long-established restaurant in an eighteenth-century medina mansion near the Kasbah, serving classic Tunisian dishes in a candlelit tiled courtyard.
Tour operator
Guided walks through the medina's monuments and souks led on request by historian Jamila Binous, plus guided visits to the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.