Thing to do
Souks of the Tunis Medina
A walk through the covered market streets around the Zitouna Mosque, from the thirteenth-century perfume souk to lanes of craftsmen and textile sellers.
Tunis's large hillside park, planted in the 1890s, with a zoo, a seventeenth-century pavilion with city views, a lake and the modern art museum at its entrance.
Good to know
Belvédère Park is the green lung of central Tunis and a welcome break from the medina's lanes. It occupies a hillside north of the city centre that was once an olive grove, and was laid out from 1892 to designs by Joseph Laforcade, then head gardener of the city of Paris. Planting was completed in 1897, after which the park was kept closed to the public for more than a decade so that the trees could mature.
The main entrance, shaded by mature trees, is at Place Pasteur. Paths wind uphill through woodland and lawns to the Koubba, also known as Kobbet El Haoua, a seventeenth-century Andalusian-style pavilion that was moved here from a palace at La Manouba. From the top of the park you get a view over the rooftops of the city towards the lake. Lower down there is an artificial lake with ducks, an Andalusian-style café and attractions for children, and the Museum of Modern Art of Tunis sits near the entrance.
The park also contains the city zoo, built between 1963 and 1969 to a design by landscape architects from Cologne. It covers around 13 hectares, with roughly 155 species, a pond, play areas and a café, and it is one of the most visited places in the capital, with about a million visitors a year. A neo-Moorish casino building, where Édith Piaf and Dalida once performed, stands in the grounds but is now used as a club for military officers.
Allow two hours for a walk to the pavilion and back, or half a day with the zoo. Weekends and public holidays are busy with local families, so a weekday morning is quieter. The paths are steep in places, so wear comfortable shoes, and bring water and sun protection in summer. The zoo was briefly closed for maintenance in the past, so check it is open before planning a visit around it.
The park suits families above all, and also anyone who wants to see a more everyday side of Tunis. It is a short taxi ride from Avenue Habib Bourguiba, and Dar El Jeld's own visitor notes list it among the sights of the European city, within reach of a walk from the centre.
Walk up to the seventeenth-century Koubba pavilion for city views, visit the zoo, sit by the lake or let children use the play areas.
Work began in 1892 to a design by Joseph Laforcade, and planting was completed in 1897.
The main shaded entrance is at Place Pasteur, north of the city centre.
It covers about 13 hectares and has around 155 species.
Yes, with the zoo, the lake, play areas and a café it is a popular family outing.
Weekends and public holidays, when local families visit, so weekday mornings are quieter.
A neo-Moorish former casino, where Édith Piaf and Dalida performed, now used as an officers' club.
Yes, the Museum of Modern Art of Tunis is near the park entrance.
Attraction
Tunisia's oldest and most important museum, set in a former beylical palace and home to one of the world's great collections of Roman mosaics.
Café
Founded in the early seventeenth century and considered the oldest coffee house in Tunisia, a medina café with columns, benches and tea with pine nuts.
Restaurant
A long-established restaurant in an eighteenth-century medina mansion near the Kasbah, serving classic Tunisian dishes in a candlelit tiled courtyard.
Tour operator
Guided walks through the medina's monuments and souks led on request by historian Jamila Binous, plus guided visits to the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.