Thing to do
Avenue Habib Bourguiba
The tree-lined main boulevard of modern Tunis, 1.5 km long, lined with cafés and colonial-era buildings between the lake and the medina gate.
A walk through the covered market streets around the Zitouna Mosque, from the thirteenth-century perfume souk to lanes of craftsmen and textile sellers.
Good to know
Shopping and browsing in the souks is the most enjoyable way to spend a morning in Tunis, even if you buy nothing at all. The covered market streets wrap around the Zitouna Mosque at the centre of the medina, and each was traditionally given over to a single trade. Artisans still work by trade in different quarters, including tanners, jewellers, perfumers, silk weavers, coppersmiths, makers of the red felt chechia cap and woodcarvers.
Start at Souk El Attarine, the perfume souk, which runs along the northern side of the mosque. It was built around 1240 by the Hafsid sultan Abu Zakariya Yahya and is known for essences of jasmine and rose water, amber and henna, with modern perfumes and beauty products now on the shelves too. Souk El Trouk borders it to the west and Souk El Fekka to the south, and other lanes lead off towards the old madrasas, a branch of the National Library and the Fondouk El Attarine, a former merchants' inn that now houses a restaurant and craft shop.
There is no set route, and getting a little lost is part of the experience. A good plan is to enter at Bab el Bhar, climb towards the mosque through the main tourist lanes, then branch into the quieter side streets where locals buy household goods and clothing. Look up as you walk: many lanes are vaulted or roofed, with arches, painted doors and tiled shopfronts.
Bargaining is normal in craft and souvenir shops, so ask the price, take your time and stay friendly. Carry cash in small notes. The souks are at their liveliest in the late morning, while early in the day you will see shopkeepers opening up and sweeping their thresholds. Dress modestly, keep valuables secure in the crowds, and politely decline if you do not want to follow someone offering to show you a rooftop view.
Allow two to three hours, including a tea break. The walk suits most visitors, though the narrow lanes can be crowded for pushchairs. Finish with lunch in a medina restaurant such as Fondouk El Attarine or Dar El Jeld, or continue south to Tourbet el Bey and Dar Ben Abdallah for the afternoon.
Souk El Attarine, the perfume souk beside the Zitouna Mosque, is a natural starting point, reached by walking uphill from Bab el Bhar.
Perfume essences such as jasmine and rose water, henna, textiles, leather goods, copperware, ceramics and the traditional chechia cap.
Yes, in craft and souvenir shops it is normal to discuss prices; stay polite and take your time.
It was built around 1240 under the Hafsid sultan Abu Zakariya Yahya.
Late morning is the liveliest time, while early morning is quieter for photographs.
Two to three hours, including a break for tea or lunch.
Yes, small notes are useful for purchases and drinks in the souks.
The souks are busy, so keep valuables secure and decline politely if you do not want a guide.
Attraction
Tunisia's oldest and most important museum, set in a former beylical palace and home to one of the world's great collections of Roman mosaics.
Café
Founded in the early seventeenth century and considered the oldest coffee house in Tunisia, a medina café with columns, benches and tea with pine nuts.
Restaurant
A long-established restaurant in an eighteenth-century medina mansion near the Kasbah, serving classic Tunisian dishes in a candlelit tiled courtyard.
Tour operator
Guided walks through the medina's monuments and souks led on request by historian Jamila Binous, plus guided visits to the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.