Café
Nagham Cafe
A café-restaurant beside Bab Bou Jeloud with a rooftop overlooking the medina entrance, serving coffee, fresh fruit smoothies, burgers and Moroccan dishes.
A café and cultural space off Tala'a Kebira, home of the camel burger, with a roof terrace, nightly live music and classes in cooking, oud and calligraphy.
Good to know
Café Clock is the best-known café in the medina of Fes and much more than a place for coffee. It occupies a courtyard house of around 250 years on Derb El Magana, a lane off Tala'a Kebira close to the Dar al-Magana water clock that gives the café its name, near the Bou Inania Madrasa. Inside, rooms on several floors lead up to a roof terrace with views over the city and the neighbouring mosque, and the décor mixes traditional and modern Moroccan style with photographs and artwork.
The menu combines modern Moroccan food with international café dishes. Café Clock calls itself the home of the camel burger, its most famous order, and other favourites have included Berber eggs at breakfast and milkshakes made with homemade ice cream, along with tall iced drinks and good coffee served throughout the day. Brunch is a highlight for many visitors, and the varied menu is welcome for travellers who need a break from tagines.
What sets it apart is its cultural programme. Café Clock runs a cooking school offering traditional Moroccan cooking and baking and patisserie classes, as well as oud lessons, Arabic calligraphy classes, a Moroccan Culture 101 session and storytelling evenings. Live music and jam nights take place every night of the week, and there are cinema screenings too, much of it free to attend. The founder, Mike Richardson, has since opened sister cafés in Marrakech and Chefchaouen.
The café is open every day from 9am to 11pm, which makes it useful for an early breakfast before sightseeing or a late drink after dinner. It is popular, so go mid-morning or mid-afternoon for a better chance of a quiet table on the terrace. Prices are higher than in local cafés but reasonable for the quality and atmosphere. To find it, walk down Tala'a Kebira from Bab Bou Jeloud and look for the signs to the lane near the water clock opposite Bou Inania.
Café Clock suits almost everyone: solo travellers looking for company, families, digital nomads and anyone curious about Moroccan culture beyond the monuments. Check the programme on the website or at the café when you arrive, and book cooking classes in advance. It is an easy first stop in Fes to get your bearings.
Café Clock is open daily from 9am to 11pm.
The camel burger. The café calls itself the home of the camel burger.
Yes, a roof terrace with views over the city and the neighbouring mosque.
Yes, live music and jam nights take place every night of the week.
Yes. Classes include Moroccan cooking, baking and patisserie, oud, Arabic calligraphy and Moroccan Culture 101.
At 7 Derb El Magana, off Tala'a Kebira, near the water clock opposite the Bou Inania Madrasa.
Yes. It opens at 9am, and Berber eggs and brunch dishes are popular choices.
Yes, in Marrakech and Chefchaouen.
Attraction
A 14th-century Marinid madrasa near Bab Bou Jeloud, built for Sultan Abu Inan Faris and known for its marble courtyard, carved cedar and minaret.
Restaurant
The fine-dining restaurant of Riad Fès, where a long-serving Fassi chef and a Meilleur Ouvrier de France create French and Moroccan menus.
Bar
A late-opening Lebanese restaurant and bar at Hotel Sahrai, with wine, cocktails and a terrace on the hill above Fez, open nightly until 2am.
Tour operator
A Fes-based company, trading as Plan-it Morocco, that runs food tours, cooking classes, medina and craft tours and day trips to Volubilis and the Middle Atlas.