Fondouk Bazaar

Fondouk Bazaar is a rooftop café-restaurant above Tala'a Kebira, the main street of the medina, a short and straight walk down from Bab Bou Jeloud. You enter through a signed doorway on the street and climb the stairs to a terrace above the lanes, where the noise of the souk fades and the view opens over the rooftops of Fes el-Bali. It is a welcome stop in the first stretch of the walk down the street, before you reach the busiest parts of the medina.

The menu leans towards the Mediterranean while making use of local produce. It is breakfast-friendly, with dishes such as shakshuka, and also serves simple pastas, salads and small plates designed for sharing, which makes it a good choice for groups who want to graze rather than commit to a full tagine. Several vegetarian options and a few vegan dishes make it popular with travellers who find the medina's meat-heavy menus limiting. The drink most often recommended is an orange-blossom and cinnamon lassi, a refreshing blend of Moroccan flavours.

Prices are moderate for the medina, higher than the simple local cafés but lower than the restaurants of the luxury riads. The café is listed as open from around midday to 10pm every day, but hours can change with the seasons, so check the café's Instagram before going out of your way.

The terrace is at its best at lunchtime in spring and autumn and in the late afternoon, when the light over the medina is soft. In the heat of summer, come later in the day. The climb to the roof means it is not suitable for anyone who cannot manage stairs, and the terrace can feel exposed in cold or wet weather, so it is more of a fine-weather choice.

Fondouk Bazaar suits couples, friends and solo travellers looking for a relaxed meal in the upper medina, especially vegetarians. It pairs naturally with a visit to the Bou Inania Madrasa, the Al Batha Museum or Café Clock, which are all close by, and it makes a good meeting point before exploring further down Tala'a Kebira. Bring cash in case cards are not accepted, and do not be put off by anyone in the street claiming the café is closed; walk on and check for yourself.