L’Amandier at Palais Faraj

L'Amandier is the restaurant of Palais Faraj, the palace hotel that sits on a hill at the edge of the medina near Bab Ziat, and it is one of the best places in Fes to combine a serious meal with a view. The restaurant and its rooftop garden look out across the rooftops of Fes el-Bali, and from the terrace you can watch the old city change colour as the sun goes down and hear the call to prayer drifting up from the valley.

The cooking is refined Moroccan and Mediterranean, with a menu that draws on the traditions of Fassi palace kitchens. Past reviews have singled out its Moroccan salads and dishes such as Fassi stuffed cockerel, but menus change, so check what is being served when you book. The building itself adds to the experience: Palais Faraj was built as the Bensouda Palace by Si Mohamed Bensouda, head of a large Fassi family, and it was renovated and opened as a hotel in 2012 in the style of a 19th-century Moroccan palace.

Before dinner, the hotel's Golden Bar, which also has views over the medina, is a good place for an aperitif. For special occasions the hotel offers private dining, and there is a tea room by the pool in the Grand Patio for a lighter stop in the afternoon. Together they make it easy to spend a whole evening at the palace.

The restaurant suits couples and anyone celebrating, as well as travellers who want one memorable dinner with a view during their stay. Timing is important: arrive in time for sunset, which means booking an earlier table in winter and a later one in summer. Reservations are advisable, particularly for terrace tables, and you can book through the hotel's concierge by phone or email.

Because Palais Faraj stands on the edge of the medina, it is easier to reach by taxi than restaurants deep in the lanes, which is useful at night. If you walk up from Fes el-Bali, be prepared for a steep climb, and take a taxi back if you are tired. Dress smartly; it is a luxury hotel, and an evening here is part of the occasion. The Michelin Guide describes the hotel's rooftop restaurant as offering Fes-inspired cuisine in a garden setting with a far-reaching view.