Sunset at the Marinid Tombs

The hill north of Fes el-Bali is crowned by the ruins of the Marinid Tombs, and at the end of the day it becomes one of the most popular viewpoints in the city. From the slopes you look straight across the old medina, a sea of flat roofs, minarets and satellite dishes, with the hills rising beyond. As the sun goes down the light turns the walls golden and the call to prayer rises from the mosques below, one voice after another, which is the moment many visitors remember most from Fes.

The ruins themselves date from the 14th century. Until the mid-1300s the Marinid sultans were buried at the Chellah in Rabat, but after the death of Sultan Abu Inan in 1358 his successors were buried here instead, with burials recorded between 1361 and 1398 and again in 1465. The hill had earlier held a fortified palace, of which very little survives. What remains today are two tall rectangular mausoleums with horseshoe-arch entrances, which once had green-tiled pyramidal roofs, along with traces of carved stucco and an Arabic inscription. Two marble tombstones found nearby, one belonging to a princess named Zineb, are now in the Al Batha Museum. In August 2024 the city's heritage agency, ADER-Fès, announced a major restoration project.

There is no ticket and no fixed opening time, as the site is open hillside. Arrive about an hour before sunset to find a spot and enjoy the changing light. Take a petit taxi up, or combine the visit with Borj Nord, the Saadian fortress a short walk along the same hill. The slopes can be uneven and dusty, so wear shoes with grip.

The hillside is quiet once the crowd leaves, and paths are poorly lit, so plan to head back down soon after sunset, ideally with other people, and keep valuables out of sight. A guide or driver can wait for you if you prefer not to walk down in the dark. Bring a layer in winter, when evenings turn cold quickly.

From the tombs, the path down through the Bab Guissa cemetery leads back into the northern part of Fes el-Bali. On the opposite side of the valley, Borj Sud offers a second viewpoint, and many visitors like to see the city from both sides during their stay. The view also helps with orientation before a first walk into the medina.