Thing to do
Walk Tala’a Kebira
The main street of Fes el-Bali, running downhill from Bab Bou Jeloud past souks, workshops and madrasas to the Al-Attarine Madrasa near the Qarawiyyin.
Explore the Mellah of Fez
The historic Jewish quarter of Fes el-Jdid, with balconied houses on Rue des Mérinides, restored synagogues and a historic cemetery.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic Jewish quarter walk
- Area
- Mellah, Fes, Morocco
Good to know
- Free to walk
- Synagogues
- Jewish Cemetery
Why we recommend it
The Mellah of Fez is the former Jewish quarter of the city and one of the oldest mellahs in Morocco. It lies in the south of Fes el-Jdid, the royal city built by the Marinids, beside the walls of the Royal Palace. It is thought to date from the mid-15th century, and many historians link the move of the city's Jews here to the events of 1437, when the supposed rediscovery of the body of Idris II led to their expulsion from the old city. The district was first called Hims, before taking the name Mellah, which refers to salt or a salty area.
The community grew after the expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492 and prospered through trade with Europe in the 19th century, but it also suffered violence, including an attack in 1465 and the riots of 1912. By the late 1940s an estimated 15,150 Jews lived in the Mellah. Emigration in the following decades reduced the community dramatically, and the quarter is now home mainly to Muslim residents. The architecture still tells its story: Mellah houses tend to have open balconies and more windows facing the street than traditional houses in the medina.
The best place to see this is Rue Boukhessissat, also known as Rue des Mérinides, which the French built in 1924 between the Mellah and the southern wall of the palace. It is lined with ornate houses and small shops. From there, lanes lead into the Lower Mellah, where the Ibn Danan Synagogue, completed in 1701, has been restored and can be visited, and where the Slat al-Fassiyin Synagogue, thought to be the oldest in the quarter, also stands.
In the south-western corner is the Jewish Cemetery, with its rows of tombs. It was moved here from an older site near the palace walls, and a small former synagogue at its north-eastern end now serves as a museum. Modest dress is appropriate.
Allow two to three hours to walk the Mellah, visit a synagogue and the cemetery. Start at Place des Alaouites, where the gilt doors of the Royal Palace face the square, and finish by walking north through Fes el-Jdid to Bab Semmarine. The area is calmer than Fes el-Bali and easier to navigate, but a guide with knowledge of Jewish heritage brings the history to life.
Explore the Mellah of Fez FAQs
Where is the Mellah?
In the south of Fes el-Jdid, beside the Royal Palace and close to Place des Alaouites.
How old is it?
It is believed to date from the mid-15th century.
Does a Jewish community still live there?
Very few Jewish residents remain after emigration in the mid-20th century; most residents today are Muslim.
What should I see?
Rue des Mérinides with its balconied houses, the Ibn Danan Synagogue and the Jewish Cemetery with its small museum.
Why do the houses look different?
Mellah houses tend to have open balconies and more street-facing windows than traditional medina houses.
How long should I allow?
Two to three hours for a walk with visits to a synagogue and the cemetery.
Do I need a guide?
Not to walk the main streets, but a guide who knows Jewish heritage adds context and helps find the synagogues.
What is nearby?
The Royal Palace gates on Place des Alaouites and the lanes of Fes el-Jdid.