Thing to do
Place Seffarine
A small medieval square near the Qarawiyyin where coppersmiths still hammer pots and trays, framed by the Qarawiyyin Library and the Saffarin Madrasa.
Walk Tala’a Kebira
The main street of Fes el-Bali, running downhill from Bab Bou Jeloud past souks, workshops and madrasas to the Al-Attarine Madrasa near the Qarawiyyin.
At a glance
- Type
- Medina walk and souks
- Area
- Fes el-Bali, Fes, Morocco
Good to know
- Free
- Car-free street
- Souks
Why we recommend it
If you only have time for one walk in Fes, make it Tala'a Kebira. This long, narrow street runs downhill from the Bab Bou Jeloud gate through the heart of Fes el-Bali, the car-free medina listed by UNESCO, and it links many of the city's best-known sights. It begins in the small square just inside the gate, where it splits from its parallel twin, Tala'a Seghira, and ends near the Qarawiyyin, with a great Marinid madrasa at each end: Bou Inania at the top and Al-Attarine at the bottom.
The walk is less about a checklist than about the life of the street. Tala'a Kebira is lined with tiny shops and workshops selling food, slippers, leather, brass and household goods to local people as much as to visitors, and you share the lane with porters, schoolchildren and loaded mules. Look up for carved wooden lintels and old fountains set into the walls, and listen for the call to prayer echoing from mosques along the route. Near the top, opposite Bou Inania, is the Dar al-Magana water clock, and Café Clock is tucked down an alley close by if you need a rooftop break.
As you descend, side lanes lead off to the Nejjarine Museum and its fountain, the shrine of Moulay Idris II and the Kissaria, the covered bazaar of clothing and fabric. Near the lower end the street enters the area of the old spice and perfume market, where the Al-Attarine Madrasa stands beside the walls of the Qarawiyyin. From there it is a few minutes to Place Seffarine and its coppersmiths.
The street is steep, so walking down from Bab Bou Jeloud and taking a petit taxi back from one of the lower gates is a sensible plan, especially in hot weather. Allow at least two to three hours with stops, or a full morning if you visit the madrasas and museums along the way. Mornings are the best time to see workshops in action; on Fridays many shops close around midday prayers.
Navigation is easier than it looks, because Tala'a Kebira is a single continuous route, but the lanes that branch off are a maze. Agree a meeting point if you are in a group, keep valuables out of sight and ignore offers of unsolicited guiding. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, as the cobbles can be slippery. If you want context on the crafts and history, a licensed guide booked through your riad or a local tour company adds a great deal.
Walk Tala’a Kebira FAQs
Where does Tala'a Kebira start and end?
It starts just inside Bab Bou Jeloud and runs downhill to the Al-Attarine Madrasa near the Qarawiyyin.
How long does the walk take?
Allow two to three hours with stops, or a full morning if you visit the madrasas and museums on the way.
Is it free?
Walking the street is free. Some monuments along it charge for entry.
Which sights are on the route?
The Bou Inania Madrasa, the Dar al-Magana water clock, the Nejjarine Museum, the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the Al-Attarine Madrasa are on or just off the street.
Is it easy to get lost?
Tala'a Kebira itself is one continuous route, but side lanes are confusing, so use a map or a guide if you leave it.
When is the best time to go?
Weekday mornings, when workshops are busy and the heat is lower. Many shops close around Friday midday prayers.
Should I hire a guide?
It is not essential on the main street, but a licensed guide booked through your riad adds context and helps with side lanes.
How do I get back uphill?
Many visitors take a petit taxi from one of the lower gates rather than walking back up the steep street.