Gambrinus

Gambrinus has been serving on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão since 1936, and it belongs to an older idea of Lisbon dining, with formal service and a menu of classic dishes. The street just off Restauradores is lined with tourist restaurants touting for business, but Gambrinus is a world apart, a formal house for anyone who wants a classic meal with traditional service.

The menu reads like a catalogue of traditional fine dining. Fish and seafood are central, with fresh fish and shellfish prepared simply, and the Sopa Rica de Peixe, a rich fish soup, is one of the house signatures. Meat dishes include Empadão de Perdiz, a partridge pie, and the Eisbein com Choucrute, a pork knuckle with sauerkraut that reflects the restaurant's Central European name. Desserts stay with the classics: Crêpes Suzette, hazelnut mousse and vanilla soufflé.

The wine list is long and strong on Portuguese producers. Expect high prices for the quality of the ingredients and the level of service, and ask the price of fish and seafood sold by weight before ordering. The kitchen's long continuous service makes it practical for a late lunch, when many other restaurants in the area have closed between services, or for a meal before or after a concert.

The street outside, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, is a pedestrian lane lined with restaurant terraces and staff handing out menus. Walk past them with a polite no thank you: Gambrinus does not need to tout for customers, and the contrast between the terraces outside and the formal rooms inside is part of its charm.

Gambrinus is open from 12:00 to 24:00, so it works for a late dinner, and the kitchen serves continuously through the day. Booking is recommended for the dining room, particularly in the evening. Smart casual dress suits the setting. It is a good choice for couples and for anyone marking an occasion who prefers traditional cooking to tasting menus.

The restaurant is a short walk from Restauradores and Rossio metro stations, and close to the Coliseu dos Recreios concert hall and the Casa do Alentejo on the same street. After dinner, walk down to Rossio or across to the Glória area, or up the Avenida da Liberdade for a drink at one of the hotel bars along the boulevard.