Thing to do
Walking in Alfama
Lisbon's oldest quarter, a maze of steep lanes and stairways between the castle and the river that largely survived the 1755 earthquake.
Opened in 2014 inside the Mercado da Ribeira, this food hall gathers 26 restaurants and several bars chosen by Time Out's editors under one roof.
Good to know
Time Out Market Lisboa occupies part of the Mercado da Ribeira, the riverside market hall that opened on 1 January 1882 and has supplied the city with fish, fruit, vegetables and flowers ever since. In 2010 the city council awarded the running of part of the building to the magazine Time Out, and the food hall opened in May 2014. Its success led the brand to open similar markets in other cities around the world.
The idea is simple. Around a large hall of long communal tables are 26 restaurant counters, along with bars and kiosks, chosen to represent the best of the city's food. Some are run by well-known Lisbon chefs and others by long-established local businesses, so you can sample a little of everything in one place: croquettes and sandwiches, seafood, grilled meat, Portuguese petiscos, international dishes and pastries, including custard tarts. The line-up changes over time, so check the current list of vendors if you have a particular place in mind.
It suits groups who cannot agree on what to eat, travellers on their own who want a quick meal without booking, and anyone who wants to try several dishes in a short visit. You order and pay at each counter, collect your food and find a seat wherever there is space. Bars serve Portuguese wine, beer and cocktails, and there are coffee kiosks for a break during the day.
The flip side of its popularity is that it gets very busy, particularly at lunch, at dinner and at weekends, when finding a seat can be hard and noise levels are high. Come mid-afternoon or early evening for a calmer visit. Prices are higher than in a neighbourhood tasca, but you are paying for convenience and choice. The hall is on one level, which makes it easy for wheelchair users and pushchairs.
The other half of the building still works as a traditional market, busiest in the mornings, and is worth a look for the fish and produce stalls. The market is directly opposite Cais do Sodré station, served by the green metro line, Cascais line trains and ferries across the river. Pink Street and the bars of Cais do Sodré are a few minutes away, so many people continue into the evening nearby.
There are 26 restaurants, plus bars and kiosks.
In the Mercado da Ribeira on Avenida 24 de Julho, opposite Cais do Sodré station.
No. You order at each counter and find a seat at the shared tables.
Mid-afternoon and early evening on weekdays are usually calmer than lunch, dinner or weekends.
The food hall opened in May 2014 in the Mercado da Ribeira, a market dating from 1882.
Yes. The other half of the Mercado da Ribeira still has fresh produce and fish stalls, best visited in the morning.
Take the green metro line or a Cascais line train to Cais do Sodré, which is directly across the road.
With so many counters, there are usually several vegetarian options, though the choice varies with the current vendors.
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