Thing to do
Walking in Alfama
Lisbon's oldest quarter, a maze of steep lanes and stairways between the castle and the river that largely survived the 1755 earthquake.
Lisbon's long-running flea market, with roots traced to the thirteenth century, fills Campo de Santa Clara behind São Vicente de Fora every Tuesday and Saturday.
Good to know
The Feira da Ladra is Lisbon's flea market, and one of the oldest markets of its kind in Europe. Its roots are usually traced to the thirteenth century, when a market is thought to have been held near the castle around 1272. It moved several times over the centuries, to the Rossio, to what is now Praça da Alegria after the 1755 earthquake and to Campo de Santana, before arriving at Campo de Santa Clara in 1882. Since 1903 it has been held there on Saturdays as well as Tuesdays.
The name is usually translated as the Thieves' Market, although the origin of the word ladra is debated. Whatever its history, the market today is a sprawling mix of professional antique dealers, collectors and people simply clearing out their homes. Stalls and blankets spread across the square, under the trees and down the side streets around the market hall.
What you find changes every week. Expect old azulejo tiles, vinyl records, postcards and photographs, books and comics, coins, military memorabilia, vintage clothing, furniture, kitchenware and a good deal of unsorted bric-a-brac. Some sellers specialise in handmade crafts or souvenirs, while others lay out boxes for you to dig through. It is as much about watching the scene as buying, and it gives a sense of everyday Lisbon life away from the polished shopping streets.
The market runs on Tuesdays and Saturdays from morning until mid-afternoon. Arrive in the morning, when the most interesting items are still on display, and bring cash, as many sellers do not take cards. Haggling politely is normal. Keep an eye on your bag in the crowds, and be cautious about buying antique tiles, since genuine historic azulejos should not have been removed from buildings, so ask about their origin.
Campo de Santa Clara sits on the eastern edge of Alfama, beside the National Pantheon and the church and monastery of São Vicente de Fora, both of which are worth visiting while you are here. Tram 28 stops nearby, and the Graça and Portas do Sol viewpoints are a short walk away, so the market fits easily into a morning in the old town. Plan a full morning if you want to combine all three.
Every Tuesday and Saturday, from morning until mid-afternoon, in Campo de Santa Clara.
Mostly second-hand and vintage goods, such as tiles, books, records, clothing, furniture and household objects.
Yes. Many stallholders only accept cash.
Yes. Polite bargaining is normal at the market.
Arrive in the morning for the best selection before sellers start packing up.
Take tram 28 to the stops near São Vicente de Fora and walk a few minutes to Campo de Santa Clara.
The National Pantheon and the monastery of São Vicente de Fora are next to the square.
Its history is traced back to the thirteenth century, and it has been held at Campo de Santa Clara since 1882.
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