Restaurant
St. JOHN Smithfield
Fergus Henderson's influential Smithfield restaurant, founded in 1994 and known for nose-to-tail British cooking from a daily changing menu.
A Soho counter-dining tapas bar serving Spanish small plates, run on a walk-in-only basis with a heated terrace and standing bar.
Good to know
Barrafina is a group of Spanish tapas restaurants founded by Sam and Eddie Hart, inspired by the counter bars of Spain, where diners sit side by side watching the chefs cook. The Dean Street branch in Soho follows that model, with seating along a counter facing the open kitchen, so you can watch dishes being grilled, fried and plated just in front of you. The atmosphere is lively and focused on the food, and the restaurant has won several awards.
The menu covers classic Spanish dishes and seasonal specials, with a daily blackboard that features the best produce of the day. Expect para picar, or small snacks, followed by tortilla, croquetas, grilled meats and seafood, and well-made vegetable dishes. Ordering a few dishes at a time and adding more as you go works best, and the staff are happy to make recommendations from the blackboard. The drinks list includes Spanish wines, sherry and cava, and sherry in particular pairs well with many dishes.
Barrafina Dean Street suits couples, solo diners and small groups who enjoy watching chefs at work. Because it is counter seating, it is less suitable for large groups or anyone wanting a quiet conversation across a table. It is ideal for a relaxed lunch or an early dinner in Soho, and a good choice before or after the theatre.
The restaurant is walk-in only, with no reservations, and seats are first come, first served. A covered, heated terrace at the front is also allocated on a walk-in basis, and while waiting you can stand at the bar with drinks and small plates. It opens for lunch from 12:00 to 15:00 daily and for dinner from 17:00, closing at 22:00 on Sundays and Mondays and at 23:00 from Tuesday to Saturday. Arriving at opening time or mid-afternoon is the easiest way to get seats quickly. Other Barrafina restaurants take bookings if you need a reservation.
Dean Street is in the heart of Soho. Tottenham Court Road, Leicester Square and Oxford Circus Underground stations are all within a few minutes' walk. Soho Square, the bars of Old Compton Street and Greek Street, and the theatres of Shaftesbury Avenue are close by, so it fits easily into an evening in the West End.
No, it is walk-in only with no reservations.
Yes, guests can wait at the standing bar with drinks and small plates.
Lunch 12:00 to 15:00 daily. Dinner from 17:00 until 22:00 on Sunday and Monday and until 23:00 Tuesday to Saturday.
Yes, a covered, heated terrace at the front, also first come, first served.
Spanish tapas and seasonal specials from a daily blackboard.
It is best for couples, solo diners and small groups, as seating is along a counter.
At opening time or mid-afternoon, when it is easier to get seats.
Tottenham Court Road, with Leicester Square and Oxford Circus also nearby.
Thing to do
London's celebrated food market beside London Bridge station, with traders selling produce, cheese, bread, street food and specialist groceries.
Attraction
Britain's great museum of world history and culture in Bloomsbury, with free entry to a permanent collection spanning two million years of human civilisation.
Tour operator
A long-running London walking tour company offering guided walks every day, from Jack the Ripper and Beatles routes to village London and pub walks.
Café
A specialty coffee shop and roaster's outlet at Borough Market, serving filter and espresso coffee and selling beans that can be sampled in store.