Thing to do
Puente de los Suspiros and Barranco
A walk through Barranco centred on the wooden Bridge of Sighs, first opened in 1876, with the Bajada de Baños path leading beneath it down to…
A walk from the Plaza Mayor along Jirón de la Unión to Plaza San Martín, opened in 1921 for Peru's independence centenary and framed by 1920s buildings.
Good to know
Plaza San Martín is the second great square of central Lima and the natural end point of a walk along Jirón de la Unión, the street that links it with the Plaza Mayor. Where the Plaza Mayor is colonial, Plaza San Martín belongs to the early 20th century: it was inaugurated on 27 July 1921 by President Augusto B. Leguía, during the centenary of Peru's independence, and most of the buildings around it date from the following decade.
At the centre stands the bronze monument to José de San Martín by the Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure, chosen in a competition, which shows the liberator crossing the Andes on horseback. Around the square, look for the Teatro Colón, completed in 1914 and one of the first buildings here; the Gran Hotel Bolívar, designed by Rafael Marquina and opened in 1924 for the centenary of the Battle of Ayacucho; and the Club Nacional, built in 1929 in a French academic style by Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski and Enrique Bianchi. The two long arcades, the Portal Zela on the south side and the Portal Pumacahua on the north, were built in 1926 in an almost identical neo-Baroque style.
The square has been a stage for Peruvian history. In 1935 the newspaper director Antonio Miró Quesada and his wife were shot near the Teatro Colón, an event marked by a plaque; in 1987 Mario Vargas Llosa led a protest here against the nationalisation of the banks; and the square has hosted many demonstrations since, including the protests of 2020. It is still a gathering point, so you may find parts of it busy or fenced off during events.
To make a walk of it, start at the Plaza Mayor, with the cathedral and the Government Palace, and follow Jirón de la Unión south to Plaza San Martín. The route is free and takes about half an hour at a gentle pace, longer if you stop to look at the buildings along the way. Combine it with a visit to the San Francisco convent or Santo Domingo, and with lunch at El Chinito or a drink at Bar Cordano.
The walk suits first-time visitors who want to see how Lima grew from the colonial core to the modern city of the 1920s. Go in daylight and keep an eye on your belongings in crowds, as in any busy city centre.
On 27 July 1921, for the centenary of Peru's independence.
The Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure; it shows San Martín crossing the Andes on horseback.
The Teatro Colón, the Gran Hotel Bolívar, the Club Nacional and the Portal Zela and Portal Pumacahua arcades.
Walk along Jirón de la Unión, which links the two squares.
Yes, the square and the street are public spaces.
About half an hour at a gentle pace, longer with stops.
Yes, including a 1987 protest led by Mario Vargas Llosa and the protests of 2020.
El Chinito and Bar Cordano are both in the historic centre.
Hotel
An 87-room luxury hotel on the Miraflores clifftop with Pacific views, a heated rooftop pool, a spa and the Tragaluz and Observatory restaurants.
Restaurant
Virgilio Martínez and Pía León's tasting-menu restaurant in Barranco, named the world's best restaurant in 2023, built around ingredients from Peru's coast, Andes and Amazon.
Café
Jonathan Day's bakery-café, founded in 2011, known for naturally fermented loaves made with local flours and grains, served with Peruvian coffee on Avenida La Mar.
Tour operator
A family-owned Lima tour company founded in 2011, offering city, food, bike and shanty-town tours with hotel pick-up and supporting a sister charity.