Kargeen

Kargeen is one of Muscat's best-known places for a long, relaxed evening out of doors. It sits in Madinat Sultan Qaboos, a residential district of the capital, beside the area's shopping centre, and its open-air courtyard is set among trees hung with lights that give the place a gentle, Arabian-nights atmosphere after dark. As well as the garden tables there are small majlis-style rooms with cushions and low seating, which suit families and groups who want a little more privacy.

The menu covers Omani and wider Middle Eastern cooking. The dish most people come for is Kargeen's own version of shuwa, lamb wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked until it falls apart. The rest of the menu ranges across Middle Eastern favourites, and the drinks are a highlight in their own right, notably the hibiscus coolers and avocado milkshakes. Shisha is a central part of the experience, and many tables order a pipe to share after the meal.

Prices are moderate, and the restaurant is a sensible choice for a casual dinner rather than a formal occasion. Evenings in the cooler months, from around October to April, are the best time to come, when the garden is at its most pleasant; in summer, the majlis rooms are the more comfortable option. Weekend nights get busy, so arrive early with a larger group.

Come hungry and plan to stay a while, as the pace is slow by design. Kargeen suits groups of friends, families and visitors who want a taste of how many Omanis spend an evening out: unhurried, sociable and outdoors. Non-smokers may want to ask for a table away from the busier shisha areas. The shuwa is slow-cooked, so if you have your heart set on it, order early in the evening. Families with young children may find the majlis rooms easier, as children can sit on the cushions and move around more freely.

Madinat Sultan Qaboos is a short taxi ride from the Qurum and Al Khuwair hotels. The shopping centre beside the restaurant has several other cafés and restaurants, and the location makes Kargeen an easy end to a day of sightseeing on the western side of the city.