Mutrah Souq

Mutrah Souq, also known as Al Dhalam Souq, is the traditional market of Muscat and one of the oldest marketplaces in Oman, with a history usually put at around two hundred years. It sits behind the harbour on Mutrah Corniche and stretches through the old town between the area around Al Lawatiya Mosque and Khour Bimba.

The main lane, which opens off the corniche, is lined with shops selling household goods, shoes and ready-made clothes. Head deeper inside and the smell of frankincense, perfume oils, jasmine and spices takes over. The side alleys are where you find Omani silver, white dishdashas, embroidered kumma caps, colourful cloth and headscarves, as well as pots, paintings, shisha pipes, leatherwork and khanjars, the curved daggers that are a national symbol. Frankincense and the clay burners used to light it make good, light souvenirs to take home.

Polite haggling is common in many shops, especially for silver, antiques and textiles, but keep it friendly, and carry some cash for small purchases. Opening times vary from shop to shop, and the souq is at its liveliest in the evening, when families come to shop and the corniche is lit up. It is busiest of all around Eid, when Omanis travel in from across the country to buy clothes and jewellery.

Allow at least an hour, or longer if you plan to shop seriously. If you are buying frankincense, ask to smell a few grades side by side, as quality and price vary widely, and take your time comparing silver before you commit. Shopkeepers are generally happy to explain what they sell, even if you are only browsing. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, as this is a working market used by local families. The lanes are narrow and can be crowded in the evening, so keep an eye on young children. The national tourism site gives September to May as the best months to visit.

The souq entrance faces the harbour on the corniche road, so a taxi can drop you right outside. Muttrah Fort stands on the hills nearby, and the corniche promenade and waterfront restaurants are within walking distance. A good plan is a late-afternoon walk along the waterfront, sunset from the fort, then an evening in the souq followed by dinner nearby.