Restaurant
Al Angham
Formal Omani restaurant beside the Royal Opera House, serving shuwa, harees and other national dishes in halls decorated with Omani patterns and silverware.
An Omani restaurant in a restored guesthouse on Mutrah Corniche, around 140 years old, serving shuwa, stews and mezze with views over the harbour.
Good to know
Bait Al Luban, the House of Frankincense, occupies a restored stone building on Mutrah Corniche, opposite the fish market and a short walk from the entrance to Mutrah Souq. The building was originally a khan, a traditional guesthouse for travellers and traders, and is around 140 years old; guests once paid by the bed rather than the room. Today it is one of the best places in the old port to try Omani cooking, and the setting, with its traditional décor and views over the harbour, is reason enough to come.
The menu covers the classics of Omani food. Shuwa, meat marinated in spices, wrapped and slow-cooked for many hours in an underground pit, is the dish to order if you have not tried it before. There are also stews and a good selection of mezze, with vegetarian stews that make it easier than usual to eat meat-free. To finish, the date cheesecake is a modern touch on the region's favourite fruit. Guests are welcomed with water infused with frankincense, a gesture that ties the restaurant to its name.
Prices are moderate, and the restaurant works equally well for lunch during a day of sightseeing in Mutrah and for dinner after an evening in the souq. Ask for a table with a view of the harbour when you arrive. Weekend evenings are the busiest time, and booking ahead is sensible during the cooler months, when Mutrah is at its liveliest.
It suits couples, families and anyone curious about Omani food in a historic setting. Dress modestly, as you would elsewhere in Mutrah. Allow an hour or so for a relaxed meal, longer if you are sharing several dishes. Shuwa takes many hours to prepare, so if it is not available when you visit, ask what else the kitchen recommends that day; the mezze and stews make a satisfying meal on their own.
The restaurant is on Al Mina Street, the corniche road, so taxis can drop off right outside. Mutrah Souq, Muttrah Fort and the corniche promenade are all within walking distance. A good plan is to browse the souq in the late afternoon, climb the fort for sunset, then come here for dinner as the lights come on along the waterfront.
On Al Mina Street, Mutrah Corniche, opposite the fish market and near Mutrah Souq.
It is a restored khan, a traditional guesthouse, around 140 years old.
Shuwa, the slow-cooked spiced meat, plus mezze and stews; the date cheesecake is a good dessert.
Yes, vegetarian stews and mezze are on the menu.
Yes, the restaurant looks out over the harbour from the corniche.
Yes, it is ideal for a break during a day in Mutrah.
About an hour for a relaxed meal.
Mutrah Souq, Muttrah Fort and the corniche promenade.
Bar
An elegant, over-21s cocktail and malt lounge at the Kempinski Hotel Muscat in Al Mouj, styled after a traditional European lounge and open nightly until 1am.
Café
The first Oman branch of the Danish coffee roaster and bakery, serving specialty coffee, sourdough and handmade pastries in Al Qurum from 7am daily.
Thing to do
One of Oman's oldest markets, a maze of covered lanes behind Mutrah Corniche selling frankincense, silver, textiles, spices and khanjars.
Attraction
Oman's largest mosque, opened in 2001 at Bausher, with a 90-metre minaret, a vast hand-woven carpet and set morning visiting hours for non-Muslims.