Thing to do
Jemaa el-Fnaa
The medina's main square, recognised by UNESCO for its oral heritage, where juice stalls, performers and storytellers give way to open-air food stalls at night.
The finely carved 12th-century Almohad gate to the royal Kasbah, starting point for a walk along the medina's earthen ramparts in the southern old city.
Good to know
Bab Agnaou is the most decorated of Marrakech's historic gates and the traditional public entrance to the royal Kasbah, the walled citadel in the south of the medina. It is attributed to the Almohad caliph Yaqub al-Mansur and was completed around 1188 to 1190. It was also known as Bab al-Qasr, the Palace Gate, a reminder of its ceremonial role.
The gate originally had two flanking towers, a bent entrance and a vaulted vestibule, all of which have gone, leaving the carved sandstone façade standing almost on its own. That façade is the reason to stop. The horseshoe arch is framed by bands of radiating lines and interlacing arches, the corners carry floral arabesques around carved shells, and a long frieze bears a Quranic inscription in foliated Kufic script. The colours change through the day, and the stone glows in the late afternoon sun.
From the gate, a walk along the city's walls makes a good way to understand the medina's layout. The earthen ramparts, rebuilt and repaired many times, run for kilometres around the old city, punctuated by gates and towers. Following them from the Kasbah west towards the Koutoubia or north towards Bab Doukkala gives you open views, local street life and a break from the souks. Storks nest on many towers, especially in spring.
The gate is free to see at any time, and a short stop takes only ten minutes, while a ramparts walk can last an hour or more. Wear comfortable shoes and avoid the hottest part of the day in summer, as the roads beside the walls have little shade. Horse-drawn calèches offer circuits of the walls if you prefer to ride, and agree the price and route before setting off.
Bab Agnaou is about fifteen minutes' walk south of Jemaa el-Fnaa, close to the Kasbah Mosque. The Saadian Tombs are just inside the gate, El Badi Palace and the Mellah are a short walk east, and Les Bains de Marrakech hammam is in the lanes nearby, which makes this a natural starting point for a morning in the southern medina. Petits taxis can drop you directly at the gate.
It is attributed to the Almohad caliph Yaqub al-Mansur and was completed around 1188 to 1190.
It was the main public entrance to the royal Kasbah.
No. The gate can be seen from the street at any time.
Carved sandstone with interlacing arches, floral arabesques with shells and a Quranic inscription in Kufic script.
You can follow the roads beside the ramparts on foot, or take a calèche ride around them.
Late afternoon, when the low sun warms the carved stone.
The Saadian Tombs, El Badi Palace and the Mellah are all within a short walk.
Restaurant
A long-established Guéliz restaurant run by an all-female team, serving traditional Moroccan cooking such as pigeon pastilla, tagines and a spread of cooked salads.
Café
A relaxed café overlooking the medina's spice square, with a roof terrace of low tables and cushions, Moroccan breakfasts, fresh juices and light meals.
Attraction
Jacques Majorelle's cobalt-blue villa and cactus garden, later owned by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, with a museum of Amazigh culture inside the villa.
Hotel
Marrakech's grand palace hotel since 1929, set in historic gardens inside the medina walls, with four restaurants, four bars, a large spa and outdoor pools.