The Mellah and Lazama Synagogue

The Mellah was created by decree of the Saadian sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib in 1558, next to the royal Kasbah, and for centuries it was home to one of Morocco's largest Jewish communities. Most residents emigrated during the 20th century, but the quarter kept its own street pattern, its houses with balconies onto the street, and a number of synagogues. After a period known as Hay Essalam, the historic name and Jewish-heritage street names were restored on the king's instructions in 2016.

The Lazama Synagogue, also known as Slat al-Azama, is the natural focus of a visit. Tradition links it to Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain in 1492, although its exact founding date is uncertain. As with many synagogues in Moroccan mellahs, it occupies part of a former private house arranged around a central courtyard, with tiled walls and a prayer hall. The building was restored after the 1950s, and it was damaged in the September 2023 earthquake. It remains a functioning synagogue, so visit respectfully, dress modestly and ask before taking photographs.

From the synagogue, wander the surrounding lanes, where small workshops and shops sell fabric, jewellery and household goods. The large Jewish cemetery on the quarter's eastern edge, with its rows of whitewashed graves, is one of the most atmospheric places in the city. On the quarter's edge, the covered market sells spices, dried fruit and sweets, and is a good place to buy saffron or ras el hanout.

Allow one to two hours for a relaxed walk. The Mellah is generally quieter than the central souks and suits visitors interested in history and everyday life. Some streets are narrow and uneven, and a few areas still show earthquake repairs, so watch your footing. A local guide can arrange access to sites that are not always open and explain the community's history in more depth.

The Mellah lies just east of El Badi Palace and south of the Bahia Palace, about fifteen minutes' walk from Jemaa el-Fnaa via Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid. Place des Ferblantiers, at its western entrance, has rooftop cafés and Kosybar for a drink afterwards. Petits taxis can drop you at Place des Ferblantiers if you would rather not walk.