Thing to do
The Mellah and Lazama Synagogue
A walk through Marrakech's historic Jewish quarter, founded in 1558 beside the royal Kasbah, centred on the Lazama Synagogue and its courtyard.
The medina's main square, recognised by UNESCO for its oral heritage, where juice stalls, performers and storytellers give way to open-air food stalls at night.
Good to know
Jemaa el-Fnaa is the heart of the medina and the place where most visits to Marrakech begin. The large, irregular square sits between the Koutoubia Mosque and the entrance to the souks, and it has been a gathering place for traders, entertainers and travellers for centuries. In 2001 UNESCO recognised it as a masterpiece of oral and intangible heritage, and it was later inscribed on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, not for its buildings but for the living traditions performed here every day.
The square changes character through the day. In the morning it is relatively open, with rows of orange juice carts, water sellers in red costumes with brass cups, henna artists and snake charmers. From late afternoon the crowd thickens as musicians, acrobats, storytellers and traditional healers set up, each drawing a ring of spectators. At dusk dozens of numbered food stalls are assembled, and the air fills with smoke from grilled meat, fried fish, merguez and bowls of snail broth.
The best way to experience it is in two parts. First, take a seat at one of the rooftop cafés around the edge as the sun sets and the lights of the stalls come on, then go down and eat. Choose a busy stall where food is cooked fresh in front of you, confirm prices before you sit and check the bill. Vegetarians will find harira soup, salads and grilled vegetables.
Some practical points help. Performers, including snake charmers and people with monkeys, expect a tip if you photograph them, so carry small coins and agree before you raise a camera. Pickpockets work the evening crowds, so keep valuables secure. Politely but firmly decline anyone offering unsolicited henna, directions or guiding. The square suits everyone, though families with young children may prefer to visit before the late-evening peak.
Jemaa el-Fnaa is easy to reach: petits taxis drop off on its edges, and most of the medina's main streets lead to it. The souks begin on its northern side, the Koutoubia is a few minutes west, and Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid leads south towards the Bahia Palace and the Mellah.
Yes. The square is a public space open at all hours.
From late afternoon into the evening, when performers and the food stalls take over.
For its living tradition of storytelling, music and street performance, first recognised in 2001.
Yes. Musicians, snake charmers and other performers usually expect a tip if you photograph them.
Choose busy stalls where food is cooked fresh in front of you, and confirm prices before ordering.
Several cafés around the edge have roof terraces overlooking the square, popular at sunset.
The souks lie to the north, the Koutoubia Mosque to the west and the Bahia Palace to the south-east.
Restaurant
A long-established Guéliz restaurant run by an all-female team, serving traditional Moroccan cooking such as pigeon pastilla, tagines and a spread of cooked salads.
Café
A relaxed café overlooking the medina's spice square, with a roof terrace of low tables and cushions, Moroccan breakfasts, fresh juices and light meals.
Attraction
Jacques Majorelle's cobalt-blue villa and cactus garden, later owned by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, with a museum of Amazigh culture inside the villa.
Hotel
Marrakech's grand palace hotel since 1929, set in historic gardens inside the medina walls, with four restaurants, four bars, a large spa and outdoor pools.