Mercat de Santa Caterina

The Mercat de Santa Caterina, close to the cathedral, is a neighbourhood market that most of its customers use for their everyday shopping, which makes it a calmer alternative to La Boqueria. The original market was built in the 19th century on the site of the medieval convent of Santa Caterina. Its renovation, completed in 2005 by the architects Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue, kept the old walls and added the rolling roof of hexagonal ceramic tiles in the colours of fruit and vegetables, which is best seen from the buildings around it or from street level as you approach along Avinguda de Francesc Cambó.

Inside you will find fishmongers, butchers, cheese and charcuterie counters, greengrocers, bakers and stalls selling olives, salt cod and dried goods. It is a good place to buy edible souvenirs or a picnic, and some stalls offer home delivery. There is also a restaurant and bar inside the market for a meal or a drink. Remains of the old convent uncovered during the building works can be seen at one end of the market.

Opening hours depend on the day and the season. Outside summer, the market opens at 7.30am every day except Sunday, closing at 3.30pm on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays and at 8.30pm on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. In summer it closes at 3.30pm from Monday to Saturday, except Fridays, when it stays open until 8pm. Mornings are the liveliest time to visit, when stalls are fully stocked.

The market suits food lovers, architecture enthusiasts and anyone who wants to see how local people shop. It is less crowded than La Boqueria, so it is easier to browse at your own pace and talk to stallholders. Bring cash for smaller purchases as well as a card, and remember that the market is closed on Sundays. Photographers should look up as well as along the aisles, as the timber structure supporting the roof is as interesting as the tiles.

The market lies in Sant Pere, between the cathedral and El Born, a few minutes' walk from Jaume I station on line L4. The Palau de la Música Catalana is just to the north, the Museu Picasso is a short walk south, and the surrounding streets have good bakeries and cafés, as well as the Cafés El Magnífico coffee shop on Carrer de l'Argenteria.