All That Jazz

All That Jazz opened in Itaewon in 1976 and is widely regarded as the oldest active jazz club in South Korea, often called a sacred place for Korean jazz. It was founded by Ma Myung-deok, who named it after the signature number from the musical Chicago, and since the mid-1980s it has been run by Jin Nak-won, who took it over in 1986 and has guided it for nearly four decades. The club has moved more than once, starting near the Hamilton Hotel, and in 2023 it reopened in a new second-floor space on Itaewon-ro with a modern interior.

The music is the point. The club hosts live performances almost every night of the year, and it has long been a proving ground for Korean jazz musicians. Newer bands usually begin with weekday gigs, and those who impress earn weekend slots on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, when the club draws its biggest crowds and the best-known local acts. The owner still listens to recordings sent in by musicians to decide who plays. Over the years the stage has also welcomed visiting artists, from Japanese jazz musicians in the 1980s to an impromptu set by Anderson .Paak in 2024.

The club's history is part of the atmosphere. For decades Seoul had a night-time curfew, from 1945 to 1982, and performances had to end around 23:00; regulars still tell stories of musicians playing on until dawn behind closed doors. Today the mood is relaxed and sociable, with a bar, tables facing the stage and a crowd that mixes jazz fans, Itaewon regulars and visitors.

All That Jazz suits music lovers, couples and anyone looking for an evening in Itaewon that is not built around clubbing. Weekends are busiest and give the best chance of hearing a top local group, while weekdays are calmer and a good way to discover new talent. Check the club's website or social media for the current line-up, set times and any cover charge before you go, and arrive early for a table on Friday and Saturday nights.

The club is on Itaewon-ro, within walking distance of Itaewon and Noksapyeong stations on Line 6. Itaewon's restaurants from around the world, the bars of Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan-gil, and Leeum Museum of Art are all nearby, so it is easy to combine dinner and a late set.