Le Chargui

Le Chargui is the kind of place that balances a day in Sidi Bou Said, where many of the restaurants with views are expensive. It is a budget restaurant on Rue Habib Thameur, the main street that climbs through the village, and it is regularly recommended in guidebooks as good value for simple Tunisian food. There is a courtyard for eating outdoors and a roof terrace with views over the sea.

The menu covers the classics that Tunisians eat every day. Brik, a crisp pastry parcel often filled with egg, tuna and parsley, makes a good starter, followed by fish couscous, salads and grilled merguez, the spicy lamb and beef sausages that are a staple of Tunisian grills. Fresh fish is also served, and on a warm day a plate of grilled fish with salad on the terrace is hard to improve on. Expect straightforward cooking rather than refined presentation.

The restaurant suits budget travellers, families and anyone wanting a quick, relaxed lunch between exploring the lanes and walking up to the cafés at the top of the village. It is also a useful choice in the evening if you have watched the sunset and want a simple dinner before heading back to Tunis.

We could not confirm current opening hours or a phone number from an official source, as the restaurant does not appear to have its own website. Busy times are lunchtime and summer evenings, when visitors to the village fill most tables, so arrive a little early if you want a terrace seat. Payment by card may not be possible, so carry cash. Plan around an hour for lunch, a little longer if you linger on the roof terrace.

To reach Le Chargui, take the TGM train from Tunis to Sidi Bou Said and walk up into the village along the main street. Combine a meal here with a visit to Ennejma Ezzahra, the palace of Baron d'Erlanger, and a mint tea at the Café des Délices or Café des Nattes. Carthage is a short train ride back towards the city if you want to add the Antonine Baths to the same day.