Restaurant
Dar El Jeld
A long-established restaurant in an eighteenth-century medina mansion near the Kasbah, serving classic Tunisian dishes in a candlelit tiled courtyard.
A restaurant and craft gallery in a restored merchants' inn in the perfume souk, serving Tunisian dishes under a covered arcaded courtyard.
Good to know
Fondouk El Attarine occupies one of the medina's old fondouks, the inns where travelling merchants stored their goods and slept. This one stands in Souk El Attarine, the perfume market beside the Zitouna Mosque, and may date back to the Hafsid period. It served the perfume trade and also lodged foreign travellers, with goods and animals kept on the ground floor and rooms opening onto the galleries above. After nearly forty years of closure it was restored and converted into a restaurant and craft gallery.
The restoration kept the central courtyard framed by stone walls, arcades and columns, along with the two levels of galleries, and added a transparent roof so that the patio can be used in any weather. The result is a light, airy dining room in the middle of the covered souks, and it makes a natural lunch stop during a morning of exploring. The building also houses a craft shop selling textiles, leather goods, perfumes, carpets and pottery, which is worth a browse before or after your meal.
The menu focuses on Tunisian standards. Travel writers have mentioned brik with egg, tajines, couscous including a fish version, rice with squid, fresh mixed salads and desserts using pomegranate. In Tunisia, a tajine is usually a baked egg dish rather than a stew, so expect something closer to a firm frittata. Ask about the fish of the day and any seasonal specials.
The restaurant is run by the same owners as Dar El Jeld, and the Dar El Jeld hotel recommends it to guests as a typical restaurant and craft shop in a caravanserai. Booking ahead is recommended, especially for lunch in busy periods. We could not confirm current opening hours from an official source, so check before you go, and remember that the souks around it are quieter on some days of the week. Prices are moderate and lower than at Dar El Jeld.
The fondouk suits families, couples and anyone wanting a sit-down lunch in the souks rather than a quick snack. It is a few minutes' walk from the Zitouna Mosque, so combine it with the perfume souk, the madrasas nearby and an afternoon at Tourbet el Bey and Dar Ben Abdallah in the southern medina.
A traditional inn where merchants stored goods and stayed overnight; this one served the perfume trade.
Tunisian dishes such as brik with egg, tajines, couscous including fish couscous, rice with squid and salads.
Yes, the building includes a craft shop selling textiles, leather goods, perfumes, carpets and pottery.
Booking is recommended, especially at busy lunchtimes.
In Souk El Attarine, the perfume souk next to the Zitouna Mosque.
It is run by the same owners as the Dar El Jeld restaurant and hotel.
Yes, the covered courtyard is spacious and the menu includes simple dishes such as salads and brik.
We could not confirm hours from an official source, so check before you go.
Attraction
Tunisia's oldest and most important museum, set in a former beylical palace and home to one of the world's great collections of Roman mosaics.
Café
Founded in the early seventeenth century and considered the oldest coffee house in Tunisia, a medina café with columns, benches and tea with pine nuts.
Tour operator
Guided walks through the medina's monuments and souks led on request by historian Jamila Binous, plus guided visits to the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.
Hotel
A beachfront luxury hotel at Cap Gammarth on the Gulf of Tunis, with sea-view suites, a hammam spa, an outdoor pool and several restaurants and bars.