Bahia Palace

The Bahia Palace was begun in the 1860s by Si Musa, grand vizier to Sultan Muhammad ibn Abd al-Rahman, and greatly enlarged between 1894 and 1900 by his son Ba Ahmed, who held the same office under the young Sultan Abdelaziz. The architect Muhammad al-Misfiwi brought together materials from across Morocco, including cedar from the Middle Atlas, marble from Meknes and tiles from Tetouan, to create a rambling residence of around 150 rooms.

The layout is deliberately irregular, a sequence of courtyards, gardens and reception halls that reveals itself gradually. The oldest part is the Grand Riad from Si Musa's time, planted with orange trees and laid out around fountains. The showpiece is the Grand Courtyard, roughly 50 by 30 metres, paved in Carrara marble and enclosed by a wooden gallery, with the richly painted Salle d'Honneur at its eastern end. Look up as much as around: the painted and carved cedar ceilings are the palace's finest feature.

The rooms are unfurnished, so the appeal lies in craftsmanship and proportion rather than period interiors. A knowledgeable guide or a good guidebook makes a real difference to understanding what you are seeing and how the household was organised. Allow an hour to an hour and a half. Families find it easy to visit, as the route is mostly on one level, although some thresholds and uneven floors need care.

The palace is one of the busiest sights in the city, and large tour groups arrive from mid-morning. Going straight after opening or later in the afternoon gives you a better chance of seeing the courtyards empty. Opening times can change during Ramadan and on public holidays, so check locally before you set out.

The Bahia sits on the edge of the Mellah, roughly fifteen minutes' walk south-east of Jemaa el-Fnaa along Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid. It combines naturally with the Mellah, El Badi Palace and the Saadian Tombs, which are all within walking distance, making a full morning or day in the southern medina. Petits taxis can drop you near the entrance if you prefer not to walk through the medina. Official guides can be hired for a half-day that covers the palaces and the Mellah, which is a good way to make sense of the area on a first visit.