Ennejma Ezzahra

Ennejma Ezzahra is a palace and a music centre, and an evening concert here is one of the most atmospheric cultural experiences in Greater Tunis. The palace was built between 1912 and 1922 for Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger (1872 to 1932), who made Sidi Bou Said his home, painted there and who is credited with popularising the village's blue and white look. In 1915 a decree required residents of Sidi Bou Said to use white and blue and restricted unplanned building, preserving the village you see today.

Since 1991 the palace has housed the Centre des Musiques Arabes et Méditerranéennes, which works to promote Tunisia's musical heritage. The centre presents a collection of historical musical instruments, books and recordings related to Tunisian music. Many of the original furnishings remain, including paintings by the baron, along with a chest said to have belonged to Suleiman the Magnificent.

The palace is a regular concert venue, and hearing Arab, Tunisian and Mediterranean music inside the baron's own rooms gives a concert here a special atmosphere. Programmes vary through the year, and the centre's website and social channels announce upcoming concerts, so check what is on before planning an evening around a visit. During the day, the building can be visited as a museum, which is a good way to see the interiors, the furnishings and the instrument collection at leisure before returning for a concert.

Book ahead where possible and arrive early, especially in summer when Sidi Bou Said is busy with visitors. The village's streets are steep, so wear comfortable shoes for the walk up and back. Evenings on the hill can be cool outside the summer months, so bring a layer.

Ennejma Ezzahra suits music lovers, couples and anyone interested in the history of Sidi Bou Said. Combine a concert with an early dinner in the village or in La Marsa, and allow time for the return journey: the TGM train stops below the village, but a taxi is often easier late in the evening. During the day, pair a museum visit with the Café des Délices and the Café des Nattes nearby.