Krishnarpan at The Dwarika’s

Krishnarpan is the Nepali fine-dining restaurant at The Dwarika's, the heritage hotel in Battisputali that grew out of one family's mission to rescue Kathmandu's old carved woodwork. Where most Nepali restaurants serve dal bhat or a set thali, Krishnarpan presents the country as a procession of small plates, moving across its geography from the plains of the Terai to the high Himalaya.

The menu is seasonal and built from ingredients grown on the hotel's own farms around Kathmandu. Recipes are drawn from family kitchens and traditional dishes, handed down and adapted rather than reinvented. The hotel gives examples such as lentils inspired by the riverbeds of the Terai, winter greens and yak cheese from the mountains, which gives a sense of how the courses change with the season. Guests choose the length of the meal when they book: the reservation form offers menus of 6, 9, 12, 16 or 21 courses, so it can be a relatively brisk dinner or a long evening.

The setting is part of the appeal. The Dwarika's is a showcase of restored Newari craftsmanship, with carved lattices, terracotta floors and hand-moulded brick around its courtyards, and the founder's collection of old woodwork includes pieces dating back to the 13th century. Eating here gives you a chance to see the buildings at night, and the hotel's Fusion Bar, set in the former home of the founder Dwarika Das Shrestha, is a natural place for a drink before or after.

Krishnarpan opens for dinner only, from 6pm to 10pm, and reservations are required. Dietary restrictions can be noted on the booking form, which matters for a menu that covers meat, dairy and many grains. The longer menus suit a celebration or a couple wanting a special night, while the six-course option is the shortest.

The hotel is in Battisputali, and the founder's story is worth knowing before you go: Dwarika Das Shrestha began rescuing carved pillars and frames from demolished Kathmandu houses in the 1950s, and the hotel he opened in 1972 won a PATA Heritage Award in 1980. Woodwork is still restored in an on-site workshop with traditional chisels, so dinner here doubles as a look at living craftsmanship. Book through the form on the hotel's website.