Isolina Taberna Peruana

Isolina is the place to eat the dishes Lima families grew up with, served in the spirit of the city's old tabernas. Chef José del Castillo took charge of La Red, the cebichería founded by his mother, Isolina Vargas, in 1981, when he was 28. In 2015 he opened this restaurant in Barranco in her honour, describing it as a homage to the spirit and flavours of the old taverns of Lima. A second branch has since opened on Avenida El Polo in Surco.

The menu is full of criollo classics, and many plates are designed for sharing, so come in a group if you can. The restaurant calls its cau cau con sangrecita the classic of the house. Other dishes include costillar a la chorrillana and lomo saltado, both served in sharing portions; seco de asado de tira with rice and beans; estofado de osobuco; and starters such as causa limeña and papa rellena. Ají de gallina, chicken in a sauce thickened with bread soaked in broth and several kinds of chilli, is always on the menu, and the cebiche is a deliberately traditional version served with octopus chicharrón and sweet potato. Much of the menu is built on the classic Lima base of onion, garlic and ají amarillo. As several dishes are sized for sharing, order a few and add more if needed.

The atmosphere is that of a revived old neighbourhood tavern, with wooden tables and chairs and vintage tiles: a cheerful place to eat, drink and have a good time rather than a quiet dinner. It suits groups of friends, families and anyone who wants to try traditional Peruvian food beyond ceviche.

In Barranco, Isolina opens for lunch and dinner every day from 12:00, closing at 22:00 from Monday to Wednesday, 23:00 from Thursday to Saturday and 19:00 on Sunday. At weekends there is also a breakfast service from 09:00 to 11:00, a good chance to try Peruvian breakfast dishes. Reservations can be made online through the restaurant's website, and enquiries are handled by WhatsApp.

The restaurant is on Avenida San Martín in Barranco, within walking distance of the Bridge of Sighs and the district's bars, so a long lunch here can easily turn into an afternoon exploring Barranco.