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Plaza San Martín and Jirón de la Unión

Thing to do · Historic square and pedestrian street walkHistoric Centre, Lima

A walk from the Plaza Mayor along Jirón de la Unión to Plaza San Martín, opened in 1921 for Peru's independence centenary and framed by 1920s buildings.

At a glance

Type
Historic square and pedestrian street walk
Area
Historic Centre, Lima, Peru

Good to know

  • Free
  • Pedestrian route
  • Historic architecture

Why we recommend it

Plaza San Martín is the second great square of central Lima and the natural end point of a walk along Jirón de la Unión, the street that links it with the Plaza Mayor. Where the Plaza Mayor is colonial, Plaza San Martín belongs to the early 20th century: it was inaugurated on 27 July 1921 by President Augusto B. Leguía, during the centenary of Peru's independence, and most of the buildings around it date from the following decade.

At the centre stands the bronze monument to José de San Martín by the Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure, chosen in a competition, which shows the liberator crossing the Andes on horseback. Around the square, look for the Teatro Colón, completed in 1914 and one of the first buildings here; the Gran Hotel Bolívar, designed by Rafael Marquina and opened in 1924 for the centenary of the Battle of Ayacucho; and the Club Nacional, built in 1929 in a French academic style by Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski and Enrique Bianchi. The two long arcades, the Portal Zela on the south side and the Portal Pumacahua on the north, were built in 1926 in an almost identical neo-Baroque style.

The square has been a stage for Peruvian history. In 1935 the newspaper director Antonio Miró Quesada and his wife were shot near the Teatro Colón, an event marked by a plaque; in 1987 Mario Vargas Llosa led a protest here against the nationalisation of the banks; and the square has hosted many demonstrations since, including the protests of 2020. It is still a gathering point, so you may find parts of it busy or fenced off during events.

To make a walk of it, start at the Plaza Mayor, with the cathedral and the Government Palace, and follow Jirón de la Unión south to Plaza San Martín. The route is free and takes about half an hour at a gentle pace, longer if you stop to look at the buildings along the way. Combine it with a visit to the San Francisco convent or Santo Domingo, and with lunch at El Chinito or a drink at Bar Cordano.

The walk suits first-time visitors who want to see how Lima grew from the colonial core to the modern city of the 1920s. Go in daylight and keep an eye on your belongings in crowds, as in any busy city centre.

Plaza San Martín and Jirón de la Unión FAQs

When was Plaza San Martín opened?

On 27 July 1921, for the centenary of Peru's independence.

Who made the statue?

The Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure; it shows San Martín crossing the Andes on horseback.

Which buildings surround the square?

The Teatro Colón, the Gran Hotel Bolívar, the Club Nacional and the Portal Zela and Portal Pumacahua arcades.

How do I get there from the Plaza Mayor?

Walk along Jirón de la Unión, which links the two squares.

Is it free?

Yes, the square and the street are public spaces.

How long does the walk take?

About half an hour at a gentle pace, longer with stops.

Has the square seen important events?

Yes, including a 1987 protest led by Mario Vargas Llosa and the protests of 2020.

Where can I eat nearby?

El Chinito and Bar Cordano are both in the historic centre.

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