Imperial Citadel of Thang Long

The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long was the political centre of Vietnam for most of a millennium. Emperor Ly Thai To began building it in 1010 when he moved the capital here, and successive dynasties rebuilt and extended it until the court left for Hue at the end of the 18th century. UNESCO inscribed the central sector on its World Heritage List in 2010, recognising the layers of history that archaeologists have uncovered beneath the modern city.

Much of the citadel was demolished by the French after 1888, so this is not a palace complex like Hue or Beijing. What remains is a large site of gates, foundations and excavations that rewards some background reading. The main entrance is Doan Mon, the southern gate to the Forbidden City, with five stone archways; the central arch was reserved for the emperor. Beyond it lie the foundations of Kinh Thien Palace, the main throne hall, where the stone Dragon Steps survive. Further north, Hau Lau, sometimes called the Princess' Palace, is a Nguyen-era building on foundations from earlier dynasties.

The site also tells a twentieth-century story. Building D67, constructed in 1967 on the northern part of the Kinh Thien Palace foundations, now serves as a museum and includes a tunnel built for emergency evacuation. Directly east of the citadel, the archaeological site at 18 Hoang Dieu Street shows architectural remains of the imperial city that were found in 2008 when Ba Dinh Hall was demolished. Night tours of the citadel are also offered. The Hanoi Flag Tower, built in 1812 and over 33 metres tall, stands on the southern edge of the complex and is one of the few structures to survive the French demolitions.

Allow at least an hour and a half to see the main gate, the palace foundations, D67 and the excavations, and two hours or more if you want to read the displays in detail. Much of the site is outdoors, so bring water and a hat on hot days and an umbrella in the rainy season.

The citadel lies in Ba Dinh district, between the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to the west and the Old Quarter to the east. It combines easily with the mausoleum, the One Pillar Pagoda and the Temple of Literature in a single day.