Hanoi Old Quarter

The Old Quarter is where most visitors spend the bulk of their time in Hanoi, and wandering its streets is the single best way to get a feel for the city. The district lies just north of Hoan Kiem Lake and covers about 100 hectares, with 76 streets in all. It is often called the 36 streets, after the guilds that made up the old merchant town, and residential and trading life here goes back to the Ly and Tran dynasties.

The defining feature is the street names. Each street specialised in one trade, and most names begin with Hang, meaning wares: Hang Tre was the bamboo street and Hang Dong the copper street, for example. Part of the pleasure of walking here is matching the street names to what is sold on them today. The houses are narrow shophouses, many with slanted tile roofs dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, where the street-facing room served as the shop.

There are a few specific sights to look out for. Bach Ma Temple, the White Horse Temple, is one of the old communal temples that survive, as are the temples on Ma May and Kim Co streets. The Quan Chuong gate is the only one of the old city gates still standing. Dong Xuan Market, the city's largest covered market, was built here by the French, who also ran a tramway through the quarter. In the evenings, the bia hoi corner at the junction of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen streets fills with people drinking fresh draught beer on low stools, and at weekends pedestrian streets host night markets selling crafts, souvenirs and food.

The best approach is simply to walk, without too fixed a plan, exploring the alleys, shophouses and café balconies. Go in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat in summer. Traffic is heavy, so when crossing a street move steadily and predictably rather than stopping suddenly. A cyclo ride is a slower, open-air alternative for those who prefer not to walk. Allow at least half a day, and come back in the evening for food.

The Old Quarter is bounded roughly by Hang Dau Street to the north, Phung Hung Street to the west, Hang Bong and Hang Gai streets to the south, and Tran Quang Khai and Tran Nhat Duat streets to the east. Hoan Kiem Lake lies just to the south, and the whole district is part of Hoan Kiem.