Thing to do
Hanoi Old Quarter
The historic trading district north of Hoan Kiem Lake, known as the 36 streets, where each street was once named after the goods sold there.
A steel cantilever bridge over the Red River opened in 1903, rebuilt after wartime bombing and still crossed by trains, motorbikes, bicycles and pedestrians.
Good to know
Long Bien Bridge is one of the most evocative landmarks in Hanoi, a long steel structure that carries trains and two-wheelers across the Red River between Hoan Kiem and Long Bien districts. It was built between 1899 and 1902 by the Paris firm Daydé and Pillé, with more than 3,000 Vietnamese workers, and opened in 1903. It was originally named after Paul Doumer, the governor-general of French Indochina who later became President of France, and kept that name until 1954.
The bridge is a steel cantilever design with 19 spans and is well over two kilometres long. For the colonial government it was a strategic link that helped secure control of northern Vietnam, and during the American war it was the only bridge across the Red River connecting Hanoi with the port of Haiphong. That made it a prime target. Its central span was brought down by US aircraft in August 1967, and laser-guided bombs destroyed several spans in 1972; each time it was patched up and returned to use, and it was rebuilt in 1973. Only around half of the bridge keeps its original form today, which is why its silhouette is so uneven.
Today it is used by trains, mopeds, bicycles and pedestrians, with other traffic diverted to newer bridges nearby. Walking out over the river gives long views up and down the Red River and back towards the city, and the mix of trains, slow traffic and old steelwork makes it popular with photographers. Early morning and late afternoon bring the softest light and the most comfortable temperatures.
You can walk as far as you like and return the same way; going a few hundred metres out and back takes about half an hour. As this is a working bridge with trains and two-wheelers, stay on the pedestrian side, keep children close and watch your footing on an old structure. There is no charge. Bring water on hot days, as you will be out in the open.
The bridge starts on the Hoan Kiem side of the river, north of Hoan Kiem Lake, so it is easy to add to a morning in the Old Quarter. The restoration of the structure, supported by a French government loan, is ongoing, so parts may be fenced off at times.
Between 1899 and 1902; it opened in 1903.
The Paris firm Daydé and Pillé.
The Paul Doumer Bridge, after the governor-general of French Indochina.
Yes, pedestrians use the bridge alongside trains, mopeds and bicycles.
Yes, there is no charge to walk on the bridge.
Its central span was brought down in August 1967 and several spans were destroyed in 1972; it was rebuilt in 1973.
Early morning or late afternoon, when the light is softer and it is cooler.
Over two kilometres, with 19 spans.
Bar
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Café
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Restaurant
Chef Sam Tran's Michelin-starred restaurant opposite the Temple of Literature, serving a single seasonal tasting menu rooted in traditional Vietnamese cooking.
Tour operator
A volunteer club of Hanoi students who lead free English-language city and food tours for visitors, usually starting from your hotel.