Borj Nord

Borj Nord stands on the hillside north of Fes el-Bali, and from its walls the whole of the old city spreads out below. The Saadian sultan Ahmad al-Mansour built it in 1582, modelling it on the Portuguese forts of the 16th century. Its purpose was as much to keep a watchful eye on the population of the medina as to defend the city from outside attack, and from this position its cannons could have reached the streets below. A second lookout, Borj Sud, stands on the opposite side of the old city.

In 1963 the fortress became the Museum of Arms, the first museum in Morocco devoted to the history of arms and armour. The building, museum and collection were extensively restored in 2003. Even visitors with little interest in weapons tend to enjoy the fortress architecture: thick walls, vaulted rooms and a roof with views in every direction. Check locally before you go, as opening arrangements for the museum have varied.

For many people the main reason to make the climb is the view. From the slopes around Borj Nord you look across the tightly packed rooftops of Fes el-Bali, with the green roofs of the Qarawiyyin and the shrine of Moulay Idris II picking out the centre of the city and the hills rising beyond. The ruined Marinid Tombs are a short walk further along the same hill, and together they make one of the best viewpoints in Fes, especially in the late afternoon when the light softens and the call to prayer rises from the mosques below.

The walk up is steep from the medina, so many visitors take a petit taxi up and walk down. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and avoid the middle of the day in summer, when there is little shade. If you go at sunset, plan your return before dark and stay with other people, as the paths across the hillside are quiet and poorly lit. Allow an hour for the museum, or less if you are only coming for the view.

Borj Nord pairs naturally with the Marinid Tombs and with the northern gate of Bab Guissa, through which you can walk back down into Fes el-Bali. Combining the two with a slow walk downhill makes a good end to a day of sightseeing.