Attraction
Bou Inania Madrasa
A 14th-century Marinid madrasa near Bab Bou Jeloud, built for Sultan Abu Inan Faris and known for its marble courtyard, carved cedar and minaret.
The tiled 1913 gate that forms the main western entrance to Fes el-Bali, blue on its outer face and green on the side facing the medina.
Good to know
Bab Bou Jeloud is the gate most visitors pass through on their first walk into Fes el-Bali, and it is also one of the most photographed places in the city. Although it looks as old as the medina behind it, the present gate was completed in 1913. It was built by the French protectorate administration shortly after 1912, from plans drawn up by Captain Mellier, the head of municipal services, in December of that year.
The two faces of the gate are deliberately different. The outer, western facade is covered mainly in blue tiles, which gives the gate its popular name, the Blue Gate, while the inner face is predominantly green. Both are covered in polychrome tilework with arabesques and geometric patterns. Look through the central arch from outside and you can frame the minarets of the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Sidi Lazzaz Mosque, a view that appears in countless photographs.
The gate is the main western entrance to the medina, and cars generally cannot go beyond it. On the outside lies Place Bou Jeloud, also called Place el-Baghdadi, a large open square, with the historic kasbahs of Bou Jeloud and en-Nouar nearby. Inside, a small square lined with cafés, restaurants and shops gives access to Tala'a Kebira and Tala'a Seghira, the two long streets that lead down through the old city towards the Qarawiyyin. This makes the gate the obvious meeting point for guides and the starting line for most walking routes.
There is no ticket and no opening time, so you can visit whenever you like. Early morning is quietest for photographs, and late afternoon gives warmer light on the tiles and a livelier scene as cafés fill up. Unofficial guides sometimes approach visitors here; a polite but firm refusal is usually enough, and if you want a guide it is better to book a licensed one through your riad or a tour company in advance. Keep an eye on bags in the crowds around the gate.
Taxis can drop you on the square outside, which is useful if you are staying elsewhere or carrying luggage to a riad nearby. From the gate it is a short walk to the Al Batha Museum, the Bou Inania Madrasa and the gardens of Jnan Sbil, so allow a few minutes here before heading downhill into the lanes.
The current gate was completed in 1913 under the French protectorate, from plans drawn up in December 1912.
Its outer facade is covered mainly in blue tiles. The side facing the medina is mainly green.
No. It is a city gate and can be seen at any time free of charge.
Cars generally cannot go beyond it into the medina, so taxis drop passengers on the square outside.
Tala'a Kebira and Tala'a Seghira, the two main streets running down through Fes el-Bali, begin just inside the gate.
From outside, the arch frames the minarets of the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Sidi Lazzaz Mosque.
Early morning is quietest, while late afternoon light brings out the colour of the tiles.
The Al Batha Museum, the Bou Inania Madrasa and Jnan Sbil gardens are all within a short walk.
Café
A café and cultural space off Tala'a Kebira, home of the camel burger, with a roof terrace, nightly live music and classes in cooking, oud and…
Restaurant
The fine-dining restaurant of Riad Fès, where a long-serving Fassi chef and a Meilleur Ouvrier de France create French and Moroccan menus.
Bar
A late-opening Lebanese restaurant and bar at Hotel Sahrai, with wine, cocktails and a terrace on the hill above Fez, open nightly until 2am.
Tour operator
A Fes-based company, trading as Plan-it Morocco, that runs food tours, cooking classes, medina and craft tours and day trips to Volubilis and the Middle Atlas.