Attraction
Bou Inania Madrasa
A 14th-century Marinid madrasa near Bab Bou Jeloud, built for Sultan Abu Inan Faris and known for its marble courtyard, carved cedar and minaret.
A small Marinid madrasa built between 1323 and 1325 beside the Qarawiyyin, often admired for the density and quality of its tile, stucco and cedar decoration.
Good to know
The Al-Attarine Madrasa is smaller than Bou Inania, but many visitors leave thinking it is the finer of the two. It was ordered by the Marinid sultan Abu Sa'id Uthman II, who ruled from 1310 to 1331, and built between 1323 and 1325. A contemporary chronicle records that the sultan watched the foundations being laid alongside the city's scholars. The building was funded by a charitable endowment that paid for an imam, muezzins, teachers and lodgings for around fifty to sixty students.
The madrasa takes its name from the Souk al-Attarine, the old spice and perfume market around it, and it stands right next to the Qarawiyyin Mosque at the eastern end of Tala'a Kebira. You enter through a bent passage that opens into a narrow courtyard with galleries on two sides. The upper floor holds around thirty small rooms where students once slept. The prayer hall sits off the main axis because the cramped site could not be aligned with the direction of Mecca, and the builders solved this with a triple-arched gallery and a square wooden cupola.
Almost every surface is decorated. Zellij tiles cover the floors and lower walls, with a band of calligraphy at eye level, and above that come carved stucco, muqarnas and arabesques, then carved cedar on the upper walls and eaves. Slim marble and onyx columns carry carved capitals, and coloured glass windows light the prayer hall, where an original bronze chandelier inscribed with praise for the founder still hangs. The bronze-plated entrance doors are replicas; the originals are in the Al Batha Museum.
The building has been protected as a historic monument since 1915 and has been restored several times in keeping with its original style. It is open as a historic site, and a visit rarely takes more than half an hour, which makes it easy to fit into a morning in the medina. Take time to look up, as the best carving is high on the walls. Photographers will find the light softer when the courtyard is partly shaded.
Because it marks the lower end of Tala'a Kebira, Al-Attarine makes a natural turning point on a walk down from Bab Bou Jeloud. From here it is a few minutes to Place Seffarine and its coppersmiths, the outer walls of the Qarawiyyin and the shrine of Moulay Idris II, so plan to explore the surrounding lanes before heading back uphill.
It was built between 1323 and 1325 for the Marinid sultan Abu Sa'id Uthman II.
At the eastern end of Tala'a Kebira, beside the Qarawiyyin Mosque, in the area of the old spice and perfume market.
It is named after the Souk al-Attarine, the spice and perfume market around it.
The courtyard decoration in zellij, carved stucco and cedar, the marble and onyx columns, and the bronze chandelier in the prayer hall.
No. The bronze-plated doors at the entrance are replicas, and the originals are displayed in the Al Batha Museum.
Most people spend 20 to 30 minutes here.
Yes, though it is small and mostly about decoration, so it works best as a short stop within a wider medina walk.
Place Seffarine, the Qarawiyyin and the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II are all within a few minutes' walk.
Café
A café and cultural space off Tala'a Kebira, home of the camel burger, with a roof terrace, nightly live music and classes in cooking, oud and…
Restaurant
The fine-dining restaurant of Riad Fès, where a long-serving Fassi chef and a Meilleur Ouvrier de France create French and Moroccan menus.
Bar
A late-opening Lebanese restaurant and bar at Hotel Sahrai, with wine, cocktails and a terrace on the hill above Fez, open nightly until 2am.
Tour operator
A Fes-based company, trading as Plan-it Morocco, that runs food tours, cooking classes, medina and craft tours and day trips to Volubilis and the Middle Atlas.