Buža Bar

Few bars anywhere have a setting like Buža. It perches on the rocks outside the southern walls of the Old Town, facing the open Adriatic, and you reach it by passing through an opening in the walls; buža means hole in the local dialect. Tables are scattered over terraces cut into the cliff, with nothing between you and the sea except a drop to the water and, on a clear evening, the island of Lokrum and the horizon turning orange.

There are two cliff bars of this kind on the southern side of the Old Town, and this one, sometimes listed as Buža II, is the better known. Compared with its neighbour it offers a little more comfort, with a thatched roof over part of the terrace and table service, and prices are correspondingly higher. The experience is about the location rather than an elaborate drinks list, and the hand-painted sign that leads you here promises exactly what most people come for: cold drinks.

To find it, head for Poljana Ruđera Boškovića, the square beside the Jesuit church, and follow the hand-painted sign for Cold Drinks through the lanes towards the sea wall. The final stretch involves steps and uneven rock, so wear sensible shoes and take care after dark or after a few drinks; it is not suitable for anyone with limited mobility or for small children who might wander near the edge.

Sunset is the most popular time, and tables are hard to find in high season, so arrive well before the sun goes down if you want a seat with a view. The bar is listed as open from morning until the early hours, which also makes it a pleasant spot for a late-morning drink when it is quieter. Weather matters: in strong wind or rain the terraces may be closed, and in winter opening is less predictable, so check its social media before making a special trip outside summer.

Allow an hour or so. Afterwards, walk back into the Old Town for dinner; restaurants such as Azur on Pobijana are only a short walk away, and Gundulić Square and the cathedral are within a few minutes.