Garlochí

Garlochí is one of the most unusual bars in Spain. Opened by Miguel Fragoso on 15 June 1978, it sits on Calle Boteros near the Plaza de la Alfalfa, and from the outside it gives little away. Inside, every wall, corner and shelf is covered with the imagery of Seville's Holy Week: painted images of the Virgin and saints, candles, flowers, silverwork, velvet and incense, with music that sounds as if it comes from a church procession. It is often described as a bar where it is always Holy Week.

To understand Garlochí, it helps to know how central Semana Santa is to life in Seville. During the week before Easter, dozens of brotherhoods carry elaborate floats bearing images of Christ and the Virgin through the streets, accompanied by bands, candles and incense, and the whole city revolves around the processions. The bar takes that aesthetic and turns it into a theatrical setting for an evening drink; the decorative pieces are antiques and have never been used in worship.

The signature drink is the Sangre de Cristo, the Blood of Christ, a sweet mix of sparkling wine and grenadine, and the bar also serves the usual spirits and mixed drinks. It is a place for a drink or two and a conversation about what you are looking at, rather than for a long night of dancing.

Garlochí opens late in the evening and gets going late, so it works as a stop after dinner. It is cash only, so bring some euros. Some visitors find the décor kitsch and others find it moving; either way, it is one of the most memorable bars in the city. It suits curious travellers, couples and small groups, and is not suitable for children. Opening days can vary, so if you find the door closed, try another night.

Calle Boteros runs between the Plaza de la Alfalfa and the Calle Cuna area in the old town, about ten minutes' walk from the Cathedral. The Alfalfa is one of Seville's busiest evening neighbourhoods, with tapas bars, small squares and late-opening bars all around, and Casa de Pilatos, the Museo del Baile Flamenco and the Plaza del Salvador are all close by.