Casa Anselma

Casa Anselma is one of the most authentic flamenco bars in Seville and a fixture of Triana, the riverside district long associated with flamenco, ceramics and the Gypsy community. It is a small, crowded bar on Calle Pagés del Corro, run by Anselma herself, and it opens late, around midnight, when most of the city is finishing dinner.

There is no stage show and no ticket. Instead, the music happens spontaneously: Anselma often leads the singing, staff sometimes join in, and members of the crowd step forward to dance sevillanas, the lively paired folk dance that everyone in Seville learns for the April Fair, or to sing a few verses of flamenco. On a good night the room is full of clapping, song and dancing until the early hours.

Because the performers are regulars rather than professionals, every night is different, and part of the charm is the sense of being let into a local tradition. Visitors are welcome, but it helps to respect the etiquette: keep conversation down when someone is singing, follow the lead of the regulars and do not treat it as a show for photographs. There is no cover charge; you simply pay for your drinks, which are mostly mixed drinks and beer.

It suits night owls, flamenco lovers and travellers who want to experience a very local side of Seville. It is not suitable for children or for anyone who wants a seat and a quiet drink, as it is usually standing room only and gets very busy at weekends. The bar is closed on Sundays and most Mondays, and hours can vary, so do not plan an entire night around it, and have a back-up plan in Triana if you find it closed or full.

Calle Pagés del Corro is one of Triana's main streets, about ten minutes' walk from the Isabel II bridge and the Mercado de Triana. The Calle Betis riverside bars and the ceramic workshops of the neighbourhood are close by, and taxis back across the river are easy to find late at night. Combine it with an evening of tapas in Triana before heading here after midnight.