La Carbonería

La Carbonería is one of the institutions of Seville's nightlife, a sprawling, slightly bohemian bar in a former coal yard on the northern edge of the Santa Cruz quarter. There is no sign at the entrance, which is part of the legend, so look for the doorway on Calle Levíes and follow the sound of music. It opens every evening and stays open late, and it has been a gathering place for locals, students, musicians and visitors for decades.

The draw is the live music. Short flamenco performances are held most nights in a back room, usually with a singer and guitarist and sometimes dancers, with sessions repeating through the evening from around half past nine. The audience is expected to stay silent while the artists perform, which gives the shows an intensity that many visitors remember. In the front room, people often gather around the piano later on, clapping and singing in a much more informal way.

The rest of the venue is a series of rooms and a courtyard with simple tables and a relaxed atmosphere. Drinks are reasonably priced, and beer and wine are the usual order. It is not a place for a polished cocktail or a meal, but rather for a drink, music and conversation.

La Carbonería suits budget travellers, music lovers and anyone who wants to experience flamenco in a relaxed setting without buying a ticket for a formal show. Families with older children sometimes visit for the early performances. It is popular with visitors as well as locals, so the flamenco room fills up quickly; arrive early in the evening if you want a seat close to the performers. It opens daily from 20:00 until about 01:30, and an early visit followed by a late dinner fits Sevillian evening habits well.

Calle Levíes is in the old Jewish quarter, between the Santa Cruz lanes and the San Bartolomé district, about ten minutes' walk from the Cathedral. Casa de Pilatos is a few minutes to the north, and the bars of the Alfalfa and Santa María la Blanca are close by for food before or after.